Well we finally got up to Independence Pass on Saturday for the first time this season. We decided to check out a crag called Phat City in the Lincoln Creek area, it’s a newer cliff with a good range of routes from 5.8 to 5.11, and the book recommended many of the lines. Hiking up […]
A local paper, the Post Independent, has an article today about the new Rifle Mountain Park & Western Colorado Rock Climbs guidebook. It focuses on Dave Pegg, the motivating force behind the guide and the founder of Wolverine Publishing. Definitely worth a quick read. In other news, NPS officials are starting to confiscate stashed pads […]
Here it is! The new guidebook for climbing in Rifle Mountain Park and other areas in Western Colorado. Featuring over 900 routes at the following areas: Rifle Mountain Park Rifle Arch Main Elk The Fortress Glenwood Canyon The Narrows Redstone Coal Creek Frying Pan Lime Park Hagerman Pass Many of these areas have never been […]
Had a nice mellow weekend, checked out a new zone at the Narrows that should yield some fun new routes on great rock. I thought the pitches would be long, but the upper half of the formation is hollow, too bad. Still, these 50′ routes will be a lot of fun and nice addition to […]
Big shout out to Mike Schneiter and Steve Smith who are going for the Nose in a day today. They were crushing while we were in the Valley last week, so I don’t doubt it will go well for them. As I sat and stared up at El Cap, it definitely boggled my mind that […]
After Tracy and I got married, we realized our combined our racks gave us close to 80 cams. This comes in handy, especially when we go to the Creek, as for most climbs we don’t need to borrow other people’s gear. About half of these cams are pretty old, though, some I bought back in […]
As I write this we are traveling at 80 mph on our way back to Carbondale from Yosemite. We might be stopping at Erick Schat’s Bakery in Bishop, as the bread is just too good to pass up! How am I writing this in the car, you ask? Well, I got a new Broadband modem […]
The alarm goes off at 4am. It’s still cold outside as we quickly breakdown the tent and throw everything in the car. Soon we’re traveling down the road in the dim light of early morning. I’m used to alpine starts after a long season of ski mountaineering, but this time it’s different. We aren’t getting […]
So a couple days ago I got the developing itch and headed out to investigate a cliff I had wondered about for some time now. The setting is superb, and the rock appeared to be rather featured and climbable. It actually looked quite good and unique. So I set an anchor on top and rappelled […]
There’s a mini-thread going on over at MountainProject.com concerning the use of plaques in the desert. For those who aren’t aware, it’s a common practice in the Creek to leave record of your ascent by inscribing the name and grade of the route on a thin slab of sandstone. It’s been the traditional, low key […]
Props to Lou Dawson for recommending this excellent article on climbing pioneer Harvey Carter. I’ve always heard he was a character, and you really get a sense of that reading this piece. Lou also posted a gripping account of a climbing experience with Harvey, one of two times Lou says that Harvey “saved his life.” […]
I came across this on the Outdoor Gear Deals site. AlsSports.com is practically giving away Smith Sunglasses. They’ve got Hudsons and Methods for $30, and many other styles. Be sure to head over there and get hooked up, you can even get free shipping on orders over $75. Better hurry though, I’m sure at these […]
I’ve reached the point where I need to replace my current Miuras, so I was taking stock of the shoes I currently use. When I worked at Climbing Magazine I got a lot of shoes for free, but most I thought were crap compared to my trusty Miuras. You’d get an occasional 5.10 that was […]
Thanks to Climbing.com for this video of Chris Sharma on one of his hard new routes in Spain. Damn inspiring stuff right there. Also, came across a nice trip report from Vince Anderson. He took a client up to Alaska and they ended up climbing two classic routes on the Moose’s Tooth in less than […]
Thursday night we packed four people, two dogs and a bunch of crap into the Subie and headed west for Maple Canyon. The drive passed quickly as the conversations wandered from one topic to another, and next thing I knew we were pulling into the canyon. We had the group site reserved, as a bunch […]
Hayden Carpenter and Tom Bohanon recently repeated an obscure ice climb on the south side of Mt Sopris. Given a brief mention in Jack Robert’s ice guide, Bulldog Creek Walk is described as being 100 meters of WI 4. What they found was seven pitches of ice in a remote setting that makes for one […]
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