Chalk Not Good For Friction?

Steve Romeo has an interesting article up over at TetonAT.com. He points out a study done in 2001 by the University of Birmingham, UK that actually “proved” that chalk gives you less grip, not more. According to the study,

“they came to the conclusion that chalk lowered the coefficient of friction by about 18% (COF: no-chalk=3.00, chalk=2.46). The theory is that chalk creates a granular layer in which the small smooth particles roll on each other…therefore reducing friction.”

The study goes on to say that “dry, clean hands offered the most grip and that a towel, instead of a chalk bag, may be better suited for the back of your climbing harness.”

A towel, huh? I can see that catching on big. Instead of cool chalk bags we all start wearing towels on the back of our harness. Several sharp commenters point out that the towel actually could have it’s place, especially when facing a desperate run out.

But back to the study, it seems to go against all common sense. We all know how slippery sweaty digits are, and how chalk helps with that. They do point out that the culprit is “any residual chalk left on them reduced friction.”, which may give credence to the Euro chalk blow, which rids the hands of any excess chalk and allows for maximum grip. I knew it had other benefits besides looking cool!