Climber’s Guide to the Public

If you’ve been a climber for any length of time, you’ve no doubt had some awkward conversations with the general public about it. When it comes to public awareness of our sport, at least in this country, the average citizen is woefully uneducated about climbing. Here’s a list of some of my favorite things I […]

Stone Alliance Film Tour Tomorrow

Just a friendly reminder that the Stone Alliance Film Tour is showing at the Glenwood High School Auditorium tomorrow night at 7pm. Tickets are $10 and the proceeds go to help build a climbing wall at the school. Here’s the trailer: 2009 Stone Alliance Film Tour from Brian Solano on Vimeo

Mitten Slab – Route of the Month

Mitten Slab – Route of the Month

By Lynn Sanson Having lived in Estes Park for 7 years I was spoiled with many easily accessible moderate multi-pitch routes. While Carbondale has great local crags, there are few options where one can go to get off the ground without driving an hour plus. So my interest was peaked when I heard about a […]

Can Worn Biners Cut A Rope?

Can Worn Biners Cut A Rope?

Many modern sport crags have fixed draws, especially on the popular routes. Over time, the rope end of the ‘biners on these draws gets worn down, and start to develop some pretty serious grooves. Kolin Powick, the quality assurance guy over at BD, has conducted a test on these worn ‘biners to see if the […]

Saftey First

By Mike Schneiter A recent ice climbing accident on the Rigid Designator in Vail has garnered some attention, most notably because the error that caused the accident was something most climbers learn their first day out: never lower on a rope running through webbing slings, as it can burn through and sever them. Apparently this […]

Rifle Arch

Rifle Arch

There’s something noticeably lacking among the climbing options here on the Western Slope of Colorado: easy climbing. And I’m not talking about easy by the standards of the I-hang-out-at-rifle-every-weekend-and-warm-up-on-5.12 crowd, but easy as in, I just started rock climbing, I want to ease into it and I wasn’t born climbing 5.10. For whatever reason, the […]

5 Point Film Festival Returns

The 5 Point Film Festival is happening once again in Carbondale, May 7 – 10. Last year’s event was a huge success with an incredible array of films and speakers, and every show selling out. The event was refreshing in that there was a big focus on humility and respect for the arenas that we […]

Black Diamond Chaos Harness Review

Black Diamond Chaos Harness Review

The Black Diamond Chaos is an incredibly comfortable and lightweight harness which excels at long days on the rock.

Choss Master vs Choss Monkey

Choss Master – a person who enjoys climbing on choss…. Now just a second there, professor. I feel I need to take a moment this morning to clear up a misconception that is spreading in the climbing world. After bailing off a climb in Red Rocks recently, I later referred to it as “the chossiest […]

Cat Wall Closed For Nesting Birds

When I first came across this I thought maybe it was an April Fool’s joke, but it appears several walls in Indian Creek have been closed until August 31,2009, because of nesting falcons and golden eagles. From the Friends of Indian Creek website: “The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) has documented a pair of nesting […]

Speed Climbing Tips – Belay Exchanges

Speed Climbing Tips – Belay Exchanges

by Mike Schneiter Steve and I had set out that morning on what seemed like an audacious mission for two everyday climbers: 31 pitches of climbing with a few thousand feet of vertical gain, a 5 mile hike and a hitch-hiking return to Yosemite Valley. Our objective of climbing the classic Crest Jewel Direct on […]

New Indian Creek Guidebook Review

New Indian Creek Guidebook Review

The first edition of Indian Creek, A Climbing Guide, by David Bloom, set the new standard for guidebooks, with incredible photography and top notch print quality. It was the kind of book that you’d want to keep on your coffee table and pick up to drool over time and time again. This edition continues that […]

Gold Butte To Be Opened to Climbers?

Gold Butte To Be Opened to Climbers?

According to a recent story in the Aspen Times, the Gold Butte climbing area outside Aspen, Colorado, which has been closed for a long, long time, may be opened once again if a housing development is approved. From the article: “Hurst also offered to convey to the county a pond next to the Rio Grande […]

Ground Breaking 5.14 in Glenwood Canyon

Ground Breaking 5.14 in Glenwood Canyon

A ground-breaking new line was recently completed in Glenwood Canyon, with 15-pitches of climbing up to 5.14c.  Redpointed last week by Tommy Caldwell, the line tackles a difficult and steep section of cliff to the left of Michael Kennedy’s popular route, the International. Mr. Caldwell was recently seen in Glenwood getting a spa treatment at […]

Locals Corner

Bulldog Creek Dog Walk (IV WI 4+)

Hayden Carpenter and Tom Bohanon recently repeated an obscure ice climb on the south side of Mt Sopris. Given a brief mention in Jack Robert’s ice guide, Bulldog Creek Walk is described as being 100 meters of WI 4. What they found was seven pitches of ice in a remote setting that makes for one […]

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