Comments on: Black Diamond Chaos Harness Review

By: Climbing Gear Review Roundup - 5/15/09 — All Climbing

Climbing Gear Review Roundup - 5/15/09 — All Climbing — Sat, 16 May 2009 00:12:32 +0000

[...] at Splitter Choss looks at the Black Diamond Chaos harness and the new Indian Creek [...]

By: eppey

eppey — Thu, 07 May 2009 22:10:44 +0000

I have had a chance to try both the R320 and the Chaos. I found the sizing to be almost identical medium to medium and large to large. I’m 5′11, 155 pounds, waist of 33, long through the waist with short stumpy legs. For my body size and shape here is a summary of what I found.

- The leg loops of both the R320 and Chaos medium were tight on me and sat uncomfortably high on my legs.
- The rise on the Chaos was marginally longer than the R320 and felt more comfortable but they were still too tight for my liking
- The leg loops on the large size R320 are just a hair too large but for me it was better than the too tight on the medium
- The large R320 waist is sinched almost all the way down on my waist to get a proper fit, I probably have a 1/4 inch left before it can’t go any more. This leaves a huge tail of webbing to flop around of probably 12 inches. It does make it easier to put on though without having to unthread the buckle
- The medium Chaos and R320 waist “ends” don’t quite touch each other when worn on my waist and are both harder to put on without unthreading the buckle. It can be done but invlovles some “tucking in here and pulling there”

Some non-fit related findings:
- The R320 is much thinner and therefore packs much tighter than the Chaos
- I found the Choas padding to be the same size thickness as the 2008 Momentum and pretty much the same shape and comfort
- The R320 was more comfortable for me to stand around in, hang in and fall on
- I like the Chaos gear loops better than the R320
- I did not like the drop seat implementation on the Chaos, although they adjust just fine I can’t see it working too well getting the elastics off the loops while wearing the harness

I can’t vouch for durability since I haven’t climbed enough in either to say if one holds up better than the other. Keep in mind that I only climb sport and my local rock is limestone and quartzite so your mileage may very greatly from mine. In the end I went with the Arcteryx large mostly because of the increased comfort and lack of bulk compared to the Black Diamond.

By: Lynn

Lynn — Thu, 16 Apr 2009 17:14:13 +0000

Luke, I think you are wise to wait and try on before investing. If you can get the right fit, I am sure you will enjoy the harness.

Bet your weather in the big SD is better than here in Carbondale today.

By: Luke

Luke — Thu, 16 Apr 2009 15:12:46 +0000

Thanks so much! I have tried on the Arcteryx and fit a small (31 waist) but need a medium for the leg loops. It sounds like I may have a similar fit issue with the Chaos. I will definitely try one out before buying.

REI seems to have the Chaos in stock online so perhaps it will come to the San Diego store sometime soon.

By: Lynn

Lynn — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 21:54:16 +0000

Luke, I had to go with the large as the medium leg loops were way too tight. My waist is 33/34 and I did not think my quads were anything like Earl Campbells (80’s football reference), but they did not work with the medium. The large waist is almost too big for me, I have it cinched way down.

While this harness is low bulk, I think it is a bit more “bulk” than the Arc’teryx. My advice is to wait until you can try sizes on and see if it really fits your body .

By: BJ Sbarra

BJ Sbarra — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 18:02:45 +0000

Hey Luke,
I’ve never tried on the Arc’teryx, so can’t speak to that. As far as size goes, I’m 6′ 1″, 175, about a 34 waist, and I wear a large. If I were any smaller, I’d need a medium. The legs loops are roomy on me. I have a friend who got the medium, and he had to get a large cause the leg loops were too small.

And yeah, you can fit plenty of cams on the loops. They aren’t huge, but big enough, especially if you also climb with a gear sling.

I also haven’t seen it in many stores yet, not sure what the hold up is.

By: Luke

Luke — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 17:52:34 +0000

Any thoughts on this versus the Arcteryx R320? How does it size beyond being comfortable? I have always had adjustable leg loops and am worried how well fixed leg loops will work. Were the legs loops properly proportioned to the waist? Are the gear loops big enough to have a triple set of cams?

Thanks for the review. I want to take a look at one in person but I haven’t found them in stock other than at online stores.