Comments on: Bad Bolts at The Puoux

By: Stoner

Stoner — Tue, 19 May 2009 22:36:33 +0000

Just wanted to chime in and say thanks to Mike and everyone else taking the time and effort to bolt and maintain routes. All that work definitely puts a big stupid smile on my face every time out. Certainly quality placements and maintenance have kept me out of the hospital a few times. So, thanks again for the work!

By: Anon

Anon — Fri, 15 May 2009 19:13:58 +0000

Climbs belong to climbers, not to the first ascentionist. Do what needs to be done.

By: Mike

Mike — Thu, 14 May 2009 21:42:18 +0000

I was thinking about drop testing it but it came off so easily that I didn’t have time or the opportunity to do it!

Seriously though, it’s a good question. Some of those “bad” placements probably have a fair bit of strength to them. I think some of the bolts I’ve replaced in “bad” rock are probably a result of years of freeze-thaw and the exfoliating nature of some of the rock at the Puoux. As far as the bolt in question, I’m not sure it would have seen a bunch of falls because it’s after the crux and it’s “easy” sailing to the anchors. I think the second bolt is what gets fallen on a lot on that route because it protects the crux. At the same time, who knows what that rock was like before it was bolted and with ~15 years of falls, perhaps it’s possible that the fracturing around the block was a result of those falls and the freeze-thaw. When the block was removed there was clear evidence in the form of dust on the block and the remaining rock that there was separation between the two. Kind of like when you trundle a flake and behind the flake there’s dirt, dust, etc. This was not a “clean” break.

To me, it’s a proactive thing. Lets not wait until a bolt fails. Lets update bolts now that are “in need” so that they’re good for the foreseeable future.

By: BJ Sbarra

BJ Sbarra — Thu, 14 May 2009 20:08:13 +0000

definitely re do it, but the thing that this makes me wonder about is how strong was that bolt in that block? I mean how many falls do you think it held? As someone who places a lot of bolts, I usually stress about each placement, making sure it’s as good as possible, but something like this makes me wonder if even “bad” placements have a bit of strength to them. We should have drop tested that thing before you hammered it off!

By: Mike

Mike — Thu, 14 May 2009 13:26:02 +0000

re: Tracy – It’s gone from the cliff but not gone forever as it’s sitting on my bookshelf. Maybe it will make a great award for a future ice festival.

Thanks for all the suggestions. Keep ‘em coming before tonight’s work.

By: Michael Kennedy

Michael Kennedy — Thu, 14 May 2009 11:45:21 +0000

Thanks for all your good work and for being thoughtful about it.

Rebolt the thing! Andy says it all …

By: Derek

Derek — Thu, 14 May 2009 03:54:42 +0000

I’m in – see you tomorrow night.

By: jim

jim — Wed, 13 May 2009 23:13:17 +0000

Holy cowsers!

By: Tracy

Tracy — Wed, 13 May 2009 22:34:21 +0000

Mike,

Thanks for re-examining that block, the Captain always thought it looked sketchy and thanks to you it’s gone. I say, re-evaluate and re-bolt!

By: andy wellman

andy wellman — Wed, 13 May 2009 18:14:41 +0000

Mike,
YES! Rebolt it! Do it the right way, your suggestions are obviously well thought out and sound. This is a practice that has a lot of precedence around here. Roadside limestone is not trad climbing, do the right thing! Bolts are moved inches, feet, replaced, removed, added, etc in rifle all the time. There is no ethical dilemma here, seeing as how you could not get any lower on the ethical crag list than the puoux. Sport climbing is supposed to be safe, especially the easier routes. You are the man, way to step up! cheers,
-andy wellman