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Climbing, Adventure, Gear & Choss
The End of Outdoor Climbing?
Sunday afternoon in Boulder. We could have gone to Eldo, and climbed a couple of cold, chossy pitches, but it was much easier instead to head over to the new Movement Climbing + Fitness gym. My third day in a row there, I couldn’t help but wonder if this ultra-modern facility signals the end of outdoor climbing. I mean, this place has everything you could want, and gives any crag in the state a run for its money. Don’t believe me? Let’s see how it stacks up against Indian Creek, one of the best crags in the entire country.
Approach
Movement – Pull up to the building and walk 30 seconds to the climbing.
Indian Creek – Super Crack has a 5 minute approach, and many of the walls require a steep uphill trudge for 20 to 40 minutes, especially if you are seeking some solitude.
Winner: Movement, it doesn’t get any more convenient.
Weather
Indian Creek – Spring and fall are perfect, but in the winter you are freezing your ass off at night, and in the summer you might get heat stroke on the approach to the cliff.
Movement – Climate controled all year round.
Winner: Movement, a steady and perfect 65, all day, every day.
Bathrooms
Indian Creek – Pack it in, pack it out. Wag bags are a fact of life of climbing at the Creek these days in order to preserve the access situation. There are a few new pit toilets, but have fun waiting in those lines in the morning.
Movement – Very clean bathrooms where you can do your business in private, and take a shower if you like taboot!
Winner: Movement, although pooping in a bag is fun sometimes.
Scene
Indian Creek – Some of the most breathtaking landscapes in North America stretch to the horizon. Truly a magical place, with the most amazing sunsets you’ll ever witness.
Movement – The design is top notch and well thought out, it never feels too crowded, even when it’s busy. Good lighting keeps things upbeat.
Winner: The Creek. Even though you’ll be surrounded by people from Colorado at both, you just can’t beat the beauty of canyon country.
Climbs
Indian Creek – Home to arguably the most aesthetic climbs in the world, splitters of incomparable beauty shooting upwards for a hundred feet or more.
Movement – The route setting is top notch, from slabs to the ridiculously steep, and even two cracks.
Winner: The Creek, though I did really like that pink 5.10!
Density of Routes
Indian Creek – Many walls offer an excellent selection of climbs, with the Cat Wall being the most stacked cliff.
Movement – As of this past weekend there were 108 routes available, from 5.6 to 5.14.
Winner: Movement, even the mighty Cat Wall only has 80 routes!
Protection
Indian Creek – Often called “pseudo” or “sport” trad, the Creek offers perhaps the most user friendly gear climbing in the world. If you have the rack for it, you can place a cam every 6 inches.
Movement – Most bolts are about 3 feet apart, keeping the fear factor low and the fun factor high.
Winner: Indian Creek, Movement is a close 2nd, but you can really sew it up at the Creek, as long as you bring 200 cams.
So there you have it, Indian Creek 3, Movement 4. Ok, so maybe you have to pay $16 at Movement, which would give us a tie, but if you think the Creek is gonna be free forever you’re drinking some good kool aid.
All joking aside though, this is a phenomenal facility and well worth a trip to Boulder for the weekend just to climb there. Maybe it will even lessen some of the crowds at the Creek too. 😉
13 Responses to The End of Outdoor Climbing?
Bulldog Creek Dog Walk (IV WI 4+)
Hayden Carpenter and Tom Bohanon recently repeated an obscure ice climb on the south side of Mt Sopris. Given a brief mention in Jack Robert’s ice guide, Bulldog Creek Walk is described as being 100 meters of WI 4. What they found was seven pitches of ice in a remote setting that makes for one […]
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on the $$$ side of things, if you have the far back camp site at the creek, and a low MPG vehicle, say an 89 land cruiser, a trip the the pit toilet (by the paved road) and back was over 1/8 tank of gas! 3 gallons, $2.50/gallon, that’s $7.50 to poop if you forgot your wag bag 🙂
Funny stuff BJ!
I beg to differ with the Scene section. Movement has some pretty sweet posters from all over the world. The Creek just has “desert scenery”. I am pretty sure I saw a desert poster at Movement. In my book it swings it to 4 to 3 Movement. Also you forgot to factor in the “attitude” of climbers in Boulder, we all enjoy that right??
As far as I am concerned I would rather have people climb indoors.
A gym can be great, a gym can be phenomenal, but it is nothing compared to the aesthetic beauty and power of an outdoor climb! I live in Indiana, go to Purdue University. The nearest outdoor rock is 5 hours away (Red River Gorge, KY) and we make the trip almost every weekend the weather is good. Just a word of caution for you Colorado-ans- don’t loose sight and take what you have for granted. There are hundreds of people in our club alone that would kill to live in Colorado and have all the rock you have.
nice new site- it looks great!
and the Movement article cracked me up!
The site looks great BJ! It was fun to look around at all the new stuff. I was about to complain that you removed the search feature (since I’ve used that here numerous times before) but then I found it 🙂 Excellent articles/entries too!
Yes. Keep encouraging more people to go there instead of outdoors. Leaves more climbs outside open for me :).
This is the worst bit of reverse psychology I have ever read.
This is just hilarious! I like movement. But what the hell is up with these people on 65 and sunny days hitting the gym? Get your plastic-asses outside! Try some footwork outdoors after a winter in the gym, then tell me about the gym and what its done for you. Of course I’m sure this is somewhat of the point to this article (hopefully). But Indian Creek? The desert shit-factory? Want some gym, go to Rifle. Sack-up and clip some bolts. F#ck scenery.
Nathan I couldn’t agree with you more! Gyms are ok in the winter but, I’d rather hit ice.
..and you call yourselves Outdoor People?
are you seriously comparing heaven on earth to a shitty indoor gym? SMH