-
Climbing, Adventure, Gear & Choss
Coming Back From Injury
The biggest mistake most climbers make with injuries is coming back too soon. Obviously it’s hard to stay away from the sport you love, but if you don’t give an injury enough time to heal, it can easily turn into a chronic issue you will battle the rest of your life.
2010 Reel Rock Tour & Filmmaking Competition
Just got word about the fifth annual Reel Rock film tour launching in September 2010. Here’s the lowdown: The largest climbing event in the world, REEL ROCK shows are spirited events where climbers and outdoor enthusiasts come together to celebrate adventure and sample the ultimate adventure in filmmaking. In 2009, REEL ROCK screened in over […]
Stop Sh!*#ng in the Desert!
I’ve been blessed with many excellent days in Indian Creek this month, but during that time it’s become clear that a lot of folks are still clueless when it comes to taking a dump in the desert. The most egregious offenses I’ve seen were poop behind a big boulder twenty feet from the cliff, and a wag bag that was used but then left open in the fire pit for the next lucky camp dweller to deal with.
Patagonia Retro Grade Pants Review
I love cotton. All you synthetic wearing hippies out there can have your stinky non-natural fibers. When I’m out climbing, I want to be comfortable, and for me that means cotton. That being said, it can be tough to find a good pair of cotton climbing pants that can stand up to the abuse of scummy trad climbing, which I suppose is why Sonnie Trotter designed the Retrogrades for Patagonia.
The Eight Unfortunate Truths of Route Development
Ultimately it comes down to what matters more in the end, the style of the FA or the end product? The problem is that the “quality” of the end product means different things to different people. Some of my favorite routes scared the crap out of me because of runouts or bad gear. Those same things that added to the overall quality of my experience would ruin it for others, because they don’t climb to have a heady experience where they could get hurt or die, they climb because they like the movement and safety of it all.
When Will It Be Good?
As the snow begins to loosen its grip on western Colorado, everyone starts talking about rock climbing, and when such and such crag will be good. For the curious, here’s the quick beta on when you can expect to visit your favorite local crag.
Osprey Variant 52 Pack Review
Osprey is a company that I’ve consistently been impressed with over the years, as they make gear that lasts. In my decade as a climber, I’ve had many packs I’ve used for climbing, but the Variant is the first I’ve owned that is designed solely for mountain pursuits, with a focus on rock climbing, ice climbing and ski mountaineering.
Wall Street
There is a place near Moab, Utah, where the rock is not good, the road is six inches away and the smell of urine assaults your nostrils on warm sunny days. Somehow, this is one of the most popular crags in Moab. Just goes to show, if you build it, they will come. So what is it with Wall Street, why is it so popular despite all it’s shortcomings?
Do First Ascentionists Own The Rock?
A comment on a recent post about upgrading old routes got me thinking about the absurd notion that many climbers have, in this country anyway, that somehow the first ascentionist owns the rock. Once the first guy does it, nothing short of a congressional mandate can change or alter the character of that climb.
Fuse, Chaos & TC Pro – Where Are They Now?
Much like a rising a rock star, new gear comes out of the box all shiny and ready to take on the world, but over time is worn down by the stress of performing well, and usually ends up a shell of it’s former self, relegated to the bottom of the gear bin. Something we […]
Top 10 Rest Day Activities in Moab
Having spent most of the last two weeks in and around Moab, I had some rest days to kill, and these are my top picks for what to do while you’re waiting for your muscles to stop hurting and the skin to regrow on the backs of your hands.
CDOT Needs Expert Trundlers in Glenwood Canyon
Alright folks, the 10 hour detour is probably a lot of fun, and I’m sure the Steamboat businesses are psyched about this stimulus package, but it’s evident you need to bring in some experts to finish the job. Now, I know some fellas that are real handy with a prybar and a wall hammer, and I bet we’d do ok with some explosives as well.
Interview With the ClimbingNarc
ClimbingNarc.com is arguably the most popular climbing blog out there, with a loyal following that goes into depression when the site goes down for the weekend. I recently caught up with Brian Runnells, the Climbing Narc himself, to talk about the site and being a climber in the Midwest.
Climbing Ethics vs Climbing Fun
As climbing becomes more popular, will old, dangerous routes be upgraded with modern hardware to provide more user friendly, safe climbing for the masses? Or will the old guard defend these testaments to climbing’s past to the death?
Indian Creek Multipitch First Ascent Video
Thanks to the Black Diamond Journal for this one: a great video of Cedar Wright & Nick Martino on the first ascent of a multipitch 5.13 in Indian Creek, Utah. Back to the Roots: M.D.M.C.P. a new 5.13 in Indian Creek from Cedar Wright on Vimeo.
Bulldog Creek Dog Walk (IV WI 4+)
Hayden Carpenter and Tom Bohanon recently repeated an obscure ice climb on the south side of Mt Sopris. Given a brief mention in Jack Robert’s ice guide, Bulldog Creek Walk is described as being 100 meters of WI 4. What they found was seven pitches of ice in a remote setting that makes for one […]
Connect with Us
Recent Comments