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Climbing, Adventure, Gear & Choss
Injury Prevention
We’ve already covered what to do if/when you get hurt, and how to come back the right way, so this month we’re looking at ways to maintain your health once you get it back and how to prevent injuries from happening in the first place.
A Note From The Seedy Underbelly of Climbing
Climbing is great, and we all know it. At any given moment, any of us could spin a lengthy, eloquent soliloquy about the stronger connections we feel with nature, our partners, and ourselves when we climb. But let’s face it. Not all is unicorns, rainbows, and lolly pops.
Metolius Long Draws & FS Mini Carabiners
The folks at Metolius are a crafty bunch. It seems like they are always searching for the next best thing, or how to make existing products that much better. The Master Cams were huge, and then of course we got Offset Master Cams, which fill a small but important niche on any trad rack. Now come two more additions we like: the Long Draw and FS Mini Carabiners.
Dumb Things Climbers Complain About: Crowds
Recently I was driving up a scenic road to a beautiful cliff on a perfect spring day, and as we got closer to the parking area, there was a part of me that was really hoping to see some other cars in the lot, to know that other folks were going to be out enjoying the day like us. As I pondered these things, I noticed with a smile how I was actually hoping to see some people, and how that is very different from how many people (myself included) usually approach a day of climbing.
2010 5Point Film Festival
Over the last couple of years, the beginning of May in Carbondale has come to mean one thing: the 5Point Film Festival. Now in its third year, this celebration of adventure focuses on respect, commitment, humility, purpose and balance (the 5 points). Last year’s event had some truly memorable and inspiring films, and this year’s line up looks even stronger, including a healthy representation of climbing related films.
Five Ten Rogue Review
It was with some skepticism that I decided to check out the Five Ten Rogue slippers. These are targeted at intermediate climbers, who maybe aren’t ready to step up to a more high performance (and high priced) model like the Anasazi just yet. I’ve used them in both the gym and outside, and I have to say that so far I am digging them.
The Frying Pan – Featured Crag
Ah the F-Pan, where do I begin? This is easily my favorite crag in the Roaring Fork valley region. The rock is excellent (and unusually not chossy for this area). The climbing is thoughtful, technical and powerful all at the same time. The aesthetics are top notch, and the views from the upper cliffs are some of the best anywhere.
Popular Climbing Areas Without Guidebooks
The recent warm weather has turned my thoughts to summer climbing trips, and one of the areas I’d like to get back to is Maple Canyon, in Utah. This is one of my favorite sport crags, where the funky cobbles, modern bolting, and unique setting all contribute to a great overall experience. Of course, one of the hassles with visiting Maple is that there is no current guidebook. The last edition is long out of print, though apparently a new book has been in the works for quite some time.
9 Tips For Climbing & Camping With a Kid
Your wife just announced she is pregnant and your family is about to grow by plus one, but all you can think about is what happened to our summer of climbing, camping, and road trips? Yes, your life is about to change, but getting out and pulling down doesn’t have to grind to a halt.
The Teton Boulder Project
While we’re on the topic of news from Jackson, here’s another notable happening in that town: the Teton Boulder Project. Nope, it isn’t some new climbing video showing a bunch of shirtless teenagers wearing beanies while sending desparate boulder problems in the Tetons. It’s a really cool effort to build a community bouldering park in […]
The End of An Era at Cloudveil
From 2001 to 2005 I worked at Climbing Magazine, during which time I witnessed the parent company run the magazine into the ground. A year after I left it was sold, all but a few staff were fired and the mag was moved to Boulder. Unfortunately, Cloudveil has just suffered the same fate and the town of Jackson has lost an important part of its culture.
Massive Bolt Removal Reported Across the Country
Climber’s across the United States woke up today to a nightmare situation: it appears that every bolt ever placed has disappeared. Reports are streaming in from sport and trad areas alike, the Red, Eldo, City of Rocks, the Gunks, and the news is all the same: no more bolts!
Bulldog Creek Dog Walk (IV WI 4+)
Hayden Carpenter and Tom Bohanon recently repeated an obscure ice climb on the south side of Mt Sopris. Given a brief mention in Jack Robert’s ice guide, Bulldog Creek Walk is described as being 100 meters of WI 4. What they found was seven pitches of ice in a remote setting that makes for one […]
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