Gunks Videos

Busy right now catching up on life from being gone for awhile. Our trip to the Gunks was excellent in every way. Great weather, good climbs and good friends, both old and new. While we get our feet under us, here are some great clips I found online showing some exciting footage from the Gunks. […]

If A Picture Is Worth 1000 Words…

If A Picture Is Worth 1000 Words…

…then this should just about cover today’s post.

Welcome to the Gunks

Welcome to the Gunks

Attending college in central New York, I was surrounded by towering walls of choss. And unlike the western variety, this stuff was untamable, no amount of prybaring or glue or what-have-you could turn this stuff into safe climbing. Winter was a different story, but thankfully during the warm months there was a climbing mecca a […]

The Way It Used to Be

The Way It Used to Be

Right up there with complaining about crowds, or maybe because of them, people also love to complain about how good things USED to be at almost every major climbing area in the country. Old crusty types seem to relish sitting around the fire, regaling us all with tales of the golden days gone by. Everything […]

Transitions

Transitions

Fall is a time of transitions. Recently we found ourselves at a local crag in much colder conditions than we have had in months. We were a bit under prepared, and cut things a little short to retreat to the warmth of pizza and beer at a local establishment. On the drive back I started […]

The Dangers of Daisy Chains

The Dangers of Daisy Chains

Black Diamond put out an excellent post yesterday regarding the dangers of using daisy chains for anything other than aid climbing. The author, BD’s quality control guru, stated how he constantly sees people using them for both cleaning anchors and anchoring in on multipitch routes, which are functions they are not designed for.

The Sport Climbing Toolkit

The Sport Climbing Toolkit

We’ve spent much of the summer in town this year, enjoying several of the good local sport crags. As such, I’ve gotten my sport climbing systems fully dialed, and present to you my Sport Climbing Toolkit.

Failure = Learning

Failure = Learning

There was no sugar coating it, I was getting a beat down. This normally wouldn’t surprise me, but it was on grades that I can comfortably climb at our home crags, so I was feeling a little frustrated.

Locals Corner

Bulldog Creek Dog Walk (IV WI 4+)

Hayden Carpenter and Tom Bohanon recently repeated an obscure ice climb on the south side of Mt Sopris. Given a brief mention in Jack Robert’s ice guide, Bulldog Creek Walk is described as being 100 meters of WI 4. What they found was seven pitches of ice in a remote setting that makes for one […]

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