Colorado National Monument’s Best Routes

The closest that many climbers get to Colorado National Monument is on the drive to Moab or points further west. They probably look up at the canyons that sit just off I-70, and think about the stories they’ve heard of loose rock, crappy anchors and general mayhem that seems to go on up there. Or perhaps they’ve climbed Otto’s route, but found it to be quite sandy and figured everything else there would be even worse. And while there’s no lack of rock more suspect than a congressional budget, the truth is there are several excellent adventure routes that offer fun climbing on mostly good stone in a spectacular desert landscape.

Medicine Man, 5.12-, Sentinel Spire

Best route in the Monument? You be the judge, but it’s certainly the best we’ve been on. The choss on the first pitch has seen enough traffic that it’s realtively clean and offers fun, sport-climbing-like movement protected by decent gear until you get to the crack proper. The second pitch serves up some green camalot fun in a corner, delicate moves past a scary hanging block, and a slightly sandy crux before the belay. And then you get the money, a long, steep, red camalot splitter with a burly overhang where it pinches down before relenting just before the belay. The last pitch is funky, in typical Monument fashion, but the gear is good and the rock surprisingly solid for the top of a desert tower.

Otto’s Route, 5.9, Independence Monument

This might be the most bizarre route you’ll ever climb, but as far as offering an easy passage to the top of a spectacular summit in 5 short pitches, you can’t beat it. Back in the early 1900’s this guy named Otto carved a path to the summit, boring out holes and steps to aid him along the way. It’s a common first tower for many, with only two crux sections that are both short. Don’t be deceived by the modest rating, however, as the final crux overhang now features super sandy sloper foot holds, and would likely be 5.10 on most sport cliffs in Colorado. If you are in the area hitting any of the other towers, this is also a good one to tack on to the end of your day, as the rack is small and the climbing goes quickly.

Fast Draw, 5.10, Sentinel Spire

Only two pitches long, but after spending some time in the Monument you’ll soon learn that quality is way more important than quantity. The first pitch serves up a short crux off the ground, followed by a beautiful splitter hand crack. A traverse left into a wide crack takes you to a spacious belay, from which a final pitch of some more wide but mostly moderate climbing brings you to the summit. As a bonus, you can get down the way you came with a single 70m rope, keeping it simple.

Long Dong, 5.11, Kissing Couple

This tower has a big, adventurous feel to it, offering good climbing and one of the most unique last pitches anywhere in the Colorado Plateau. It begins with a long stretch of excellent 10+ climbing that leads to the crux traverse left. At one point these edges were crisp and the moves were probably 11-. Well worn and sandy, the movement is no longer aesthetic and most will be happy to yard on the draw staring you in the face to get on with the rest of the day. Other highlights include a moderate but mostly unprotected chimney, and the final tunnel through the caprock to the summit.

Desert Solitaire, 5.11

I’ve admittedly not climbed this one, though it’s been on the list for awhile now and others have attested to its quality. Not a tower, but a good mulipitch adventure in the scenic Monument Canyon, there are several excellent pitches of Wingate crack climbing, along with the usual fare of funkness to deal with. The short , face climbing crux can easily be pulled through on gear, and the Lighting Bolt variation on the 3rd pitch is supposed to be one of the best splitters in the CNM.

Honorable Mentions

Sundial Dihedral is reported to be a good outing, on the south face on Independence Monument. Relics offers two pitches of decent climbing, and then some of the worst “rock” I’ve ever seen. Get A Life is also supposed to be good but the last pitch is junk and said to be scary and runout.

If you are looking for a fun way to climb a couple of these, you may be ready to step up to the Tri Colo Natl, a link up of Long Dong, Fast Draw, and Otto’s in a day. Good fun and not too hard for even a moderately competent party. Our time car to car was 9 hours and change.