Friday Five – Training Day

Hangboards or movement training? Campusing or drinking beer? These are tough questions, and in this month’s Friday Five, we present five articles covering different aspects of training. Hopefully you’ll find some inspiration and take YOUR training to the next level!

Alex Honnold writes about the climbers in Poland, and how unbelievably motivated they are, despite climbing at gyms that are significantly less glamorous than their American counterparts.

Andrew Bisharat shares his recent experience with climbing coach Justen Sjong, and just how much it opened his eyes to flaws in his climbing

Practical tips from the Self Coached Climber guys about how to get more out of 4×4 training.

The Anderson brothers give some PhD level advice on the nuances of getting stronger through training.

And for everyone out there that’s tight on time, Alli Rainey gives some great tips on staying fit through a busy week.




2 Responses to Friday Five – Training Day

  1. My two cents: training to train is a waste of time. With that in mind you must have a goal (your weaknesses, your technique,, your fingers, whatever). Once you settle on a goal then training has meaning and purpose and you can begin to give your self to the task at hand. Motivation will be high, your effort will be high and your gains will be significant. The articles that are above explain that everyone trains a bit differently. The bottom line is that accurate systematic training with specific goals will lead you to success on route (all other things equal).
    For me, I follow a program that resembles Justin and Mike Anderson. There are many nonclimbing factors that will increase or decrease your success rates on climbs. Most of which depend on one thing: get over yourself, quit comparing yourself to others. There will always be someone who is stronger, who does things faster and who has better technique, but the fact is that reaching YOUR potential is the goal. Be inspired by others, learn from others, be willing to learn and try your hardest and tailor a program that fits your needs and schedule, only then will you improve and have a blast doing it. I can say that I wanted big numbers early on for one reason only and that was to be able to climb big routes fast and safely. My training program allowed me to do that. I am happy and continue to modify my training to meet the needs of the routes that I am inspired by. Bottom line if you are not having fun training isn’t the answer either.

    piz January 13, 2012 at 6:51 pm
    • Great points piz!

      BJ Sbarra January 13, 2012 at 7:35 pm
Locals Corner

Bulldog Creek Dog Walk (IV WI 4+)

Hayden Carpenter and Tom Bohanon recently repeated an obscure ice climb on the south side of Mt Sopris. Given a brief mention in Jack Robert’s ice guide, Bulldog Creek Walk is described as being 100 meters of WI 4. What they found was seven pitches of ice in a remote setting that makes for one […]

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