Glenwood Canyon is a truly spectacular gorge with a lifetime of rock climbing potential. Unfortunately, much of the good stone is difficult to get to, while the loose kitty litter choss that defines much of the canyon is all too plentiful and convenient. Approaches to several of the crags here cross private land, including some owned by the railroad, and for that reason you wont find any specifics mentioned.
The Puoux and it’s big brother Super Puoux can be found just east of the tunnel coming from Glenwood. This is roadside cragging at its finest, comlpete with a constant drone of traffic from I-70. Many folks enjoy this crag for the ease of access and some quality climbs. Please help keep what is already a somewhat urban experience as clean as possible. The climbs here are detailed in Dave Pegg’s guidebook Western Sloper.
No Name canyon is a small granite cragging area located at the No Name exit. There are some fun single pitch crack climbs here that make for a nice afternoon of climbing. This area is also covered in Western Sloper.
Grizzly Creek is home to the Mudwall, a towering cliff of quartzite, sandstone and limestone. Layton Kor explored this cliff and it gained a reputation as being loose and scary. Jeff Achey recently put a 10 pitch climb up the right side that allegedly climbs good quartzite and is a worthy objective.
Moving east along the highway brings you to the Shoshone exit. Park here and walk up canyon to find the Shoshone Stones, a collection of boulders in the river bed that can be climbed on when the river is low in late summer and early fall. Sucking Wind is on the granite across the canyon, along with other cragging routes. If you go, remember you are trespassing on railroad property and keep a low profile.
Next up is the Hanging Lake exit. From here you can access the Hanging Lake Slab, as well as some more bouldering opportunities in the river bed below the dam, and along the bike path. Dont miss Hanging Lake itself, a beautiful travertine lake that’s only a quick, steep mile from the trailhead. Dead Horse is a new wall offering steep quartzite climbing, be sure to check it out.
The Quartzite Wasteland is a recently developed area on the, you guessed it, quartzite of Glenwood Canyon. This crag sits just up stream from the Dead Horse cliff. The routes vary from 30? to 100? tall, and this cliff isn’t for everyone. Some routes are fun, but may be dirty.
Lastly, there are supposedly some sport routes of questionable quality east of the Bair Ranch exit. Park at the rest area, and hike up canyon along the bike path until it goes under the highway. Just before it goes back under the highway towards the river hike up to the climbs on a faint trail.