Zanzibar Dihedral, 5.8+

Located on the Weller Slab, the first pitch is a classic 5.7 crack which leads to a nice, comfy ledge, the perfect spot for the belayer to kick back and relax while the leader tackles the next pitch. And what a pitch it is. More reminiscent of Yosemite than the Pass, it features a long corner that’ll give your calves a pump smearing on the polished stone out right. When it looks like things are about to get thin, face climb up and right, and then up easier rock to the anchor. Rap with two ropes or walk off.

Apple Pie, 5.10-

There are few finer things in life then 5.10 finger cracks, and this one is no exception. Starting from the same ledge as the second pitch of Zanzibar, perfect fingers leads to a small overhang and a thin sequence, after which you’ll find easier climbing leading to the top. Be sure to bring two ropes, as a 70m will not get you off the top of this one. And while you’re here, you might as well tick the Ultra Edge (5.9) out to the right as well.

Plaque Right, 5.9

The Plaque is an obvious shield of stone sitting high above the talus, and this route tackles the prominent right edge of the feature. The direct start has a tricky balance move down low, followed by fun climbing along the arete. A second mini “pitch” takes you up to the base of the Plaque proper, where the real fun begins. It looks way harder than 5.9, but the holds are there and the positioning is spectacular. Once on top, it’s easy to set up TR’s on the other routes on this wall, several of which carry “R” ratings and are probably best enjoyed with a rope from above.

Twin Cracks, 5.8

Probably the most climbed route on the most popular cliff at the Pass, Twin Cracks is a striking line that offers fun hand jams followed by an improbable looking traverse to steep jug hauling. Most folks lower from the chains, though you can continue up another short pitch to the top of the cliff. If you do lower you can get a bonus TR on One for the Road (5.10c).

Cryogenics, 5.10- (first pitch)

The second most popular route on the pass, most folks are drawn to this one by what looks like a splitter crack, only to find it’s really more of a face climb on gear. Still, this is a fun climb, with an exciting finish getting to the chains. Some folks opt for the punch it and don’t place gear approach, and it’s not uncommon to see some big whippers on this one. If you cruise it no problem, don’t miss out on the second pitch, which has two variations, 5.10 or 5.11.

Cardo’s Corner, 5.9

Best 5.9 on the Pass? You can decide for yourself. Though the unprotected start detracts slightly from the experience, once you get past this you’ll be rewarded with a long corner offering all sizes of jamming and stemming. Be sure to use a 70m rope if you want to set up a TR, and if you like this one, check out the wild Haywire (5.9+) just around the corner.

Cohen’s Crown, 5.9

As you work up the overhanging flake towards the start of the route, you might find it hard to believe you are trad climbing. Steep jugs are the name of the game on this one, with a short tricky spot near the top. This is a great warm up for the classic routes on the right side of the cliff, Flexible Flyer (5.10c) and Flying Dutchman (5.11c).

Nose of Turkey Rock, 5.8

This one will get you off the deck a ways, with awesome views of the Maroon Bells and Pyramid Peak to the west. The first pitch features a delicate traverse, and then a few steep bulges that are passed on jugs. The rest is cruiser, with most folks heading right to finish up on the top pitches of Right Wing, a worthy 5.6.

Got a favorite that’s not listed here? Let us know in the comments.

The Notch

(See Rifle Mountain Park and Western Colorado Rock Climbs for directions)

The Health Issue, 5.11c
Climbs the arête left of Chiroptophobia. Climb past three bolts to a thin crack above a block (000 TCU and/or tiny Stopper). Follow the crack (good small cams or nuts), shifting left around the arête a couple of times, clipping a loan bolt on the left side (easily visible from the base), which protects moves onto a ledge. Scramble up ledges to another bolt, clip it and move left into cracks. Follow discontinuous cracks, staying on the exposed arête, to two bolts and a two-bolt anchor. Seven bolts, medium and small nuts, 3 purple (00) TCUs, single rack of TCUs and C4s to #1. 35 meters

Gold Brick, 5.11d
Climb Jenga Buttress crack or Village Idiot. From the anchors of Jenga Buttress Crack or by veering right at the last bolt on Village Idiot, continue up (#.75 green C4). Two bolts protect tricky moves through the first roof (crux). Place a C3 (red and/or yellow), and a good big nut. Turn the next roof and enter the steep, exposed face. Clip 3 bolts as you climb rightwards to the crack. Place a green and/or red C3, then a #1 (red) C4 to protect an endurance crux. Two or three long slings help with drag. To descend: Lower to the anchor on Jenga, and lower again.  Gear: Green C4 (.75), 2 Red C3s, large nut, Green C3, Red C4 (#1) 50 meters

The Tombstone, 5.12b
Climb Jenga Buttress crack. From the anchors of Jenga Buttress Crack, step right and clip a bolt. Climb to the finger crack and place a bomber .4 camalot. Reach back and unclip the bolt to alleviate drag (or use long slings on the bolt). Turn the roof and clip a bolt. Then turn a couple more roofs, pull on the namesake “tombstone” to a crux lip encounter. Rejoin Gold Brick at the crack. To descend: Lower to the anchor on Jenga, and lower again.
Gear: Gray C4 (.4), green C3, Red C3, Red C4 (#1)  50 meters

Jenga Dihedral, 5.10
The obvious left facing corner to the right of Jenga Buttress Crack. Climb the corner to a bolt, then move right to a hidden finger crack and the anchor. Take single cams to #2 including C3s, a set of nuts and an extra .4 Camalot. 30 meters

Mojo Area

Approach by heading to the Notch. Drop through and pass Red Faction. Just past Red Faction you’ll reach a short, clean, steep wall with 4 routes.

Mojo, 5.12b 3 bolts
Climb the center of the clean wall. Short, but really good. Perfect rock.

Bumper to Bumper, 5.12a 4 bolts
Left of Mojo. Traverse left along crimpers to start. Alternatively, match in the distinctive slot and make a hard move to the sloping rail. This direct start is V6 or 7.

Biodynamic, 5.13b project 6 bolts

Beyond Organic, 5.11c 7 bolts
Traverse the arête starting far left.

This next route is on the obvious triangular-shaped clean face/spire closest to the highway, visible from the Avocado Gully/Gash parking area. Just downhill from the Mojo wall, scramble up a short gully with a fixed rope and access the base of the face.

Kurt Albert Memorial, 5.10d
Exposed belay. Climb the crack to 5 bolts and an anchor. Great position. Rack: Big nuts, single set of C3s and C4s to number 2 (yellow). 30 meters

Download the topo (PDF).

Composed of the same softer Navajo sandstone as Wall Street, you might be fooled into thinking it’s Wingate when you first spy the routes here. The lines are mostly pure crack pitches, much more reminiscent of the Creek (or at least the Swell) than most of the other stuff around town. There’s a good range of grades, from 5.9 to 5.11+, with the incredible arch route Shogun (12+) and its burly extension Bushido (13c) for the hardman or woman in your group.

The wall soaks the sun all day, making it ideal for those colder, sunny days. If it’s in the 50′s and there is no wind, you’ll probably be hot at some point. Also, there’s enough variety in the routes that they don’t require Creek sized racks, generally a triple set will get you up most of the climbs here.

To get to the wall, take Kane Creek Road south out of Moab. Go past the Tombstones, past the big parking lot (you can park here if the closer lot is full) and up to a small parking area just past the turn off for the Amasa Back mountain bike trail. Walk back down to the road to Amasa Back, and take this down to the creek. Cross the creek and head right up a well worn trail to the base of the cliff. The approach probably takes 15-20 minutes and is fairly casual.

There are just enough routes to keep you busy for a day, and it’s well worth a visit. For more info refer to the book Desert Rock 3. There is also some limited info on Mountain Project.

5) Crystal Visions, WI4+
Boasting possibly the longest approach, it’s also one of the better multipitch routes. After a long uphill slog, you’ll be rewarded with three fun pitches. The first is a low angle romp that’ll get you in the swing of things. The second is beautiful WI3 for a long pitch to the base of the final pillar, which, depending on conditions, can be 4+ to 5-, and brings you to the top of the climb. The views of the valley are incredible from up here and make it well worth the effort.

4) The Drool, WI5
For years we used to step over a no tresspassing sign to climb here, under the impression it was technically off limits but the land owner looked the other way. A couple years ago Pitkin County Open Space bought the property and we now enjoy legal access to one of the best pure ice pitches in the valley. An 80′ column of vertical ice, it’s a great place to dial in your steep waterfall technique. There is also a shorter second pitch above it that serves as a nice warmup.

3) Redstone Slabs, WI4/5
This is the prize of multipitch routes in Redstone. With an east facing, sunny exposure, it’s best after a period of cold weather. Depending on the year, you may have two options for starting the route, both of which usually clock in around WI5-. The next pitch can go up steeper curtains on the left or a mellower gully on the right, both of which bring you to the base of the final curtain, which starts steep but soon relents to easier ice above. As a safety note, wet slides are not uncommon in the area on warmer days, so check the avy forecast before heading out.

2) Cold Heaven, WI5
Arguably the most interesting single pitch of ice in Redstone, it’s hard to catch this one in condition. It face east/south east, and as such needs the right combination of snow melt and cold temps to come in. When it does, you’ll find an incredible journey up pillars, slabs and corners for over 200′ that tops out the cliff. If the starting pillar hasn’t touch down, a difficult mixed start is possible up the grungy offwidth to the right.

1) The Pencil, WI5
This one gets the award for least likely to come in. When it does, however, it offers perhaps the steepest pure ice pitch in the valley. Located above the town of Redstone, its easy to scout from the road. And even if it doesn’t fully form, there’s a bunch of mixed options in the vicinity.

Did your favorite make the list? If not let us know in the comments!

Red Rocks is one of the premier climbing areas in the United States, with everything from single pitch sport climbs to some of the longest trad routes in the country. Slabs, cracks, overhangs, and a range of grades from 5.easy to 5.hard make it appealing to a wide variety of folks. The drive from western Colorado is relatively easy, as you are on interstate the entire time, and you only cross one stretch of mountainous terrain that can present weather-related driving challenges. Here’s our simple guide to getting the most out of your next Vegas road trip.

Best Stops Along the Way

Green River – The stretch after Green River is one of the most desolate in the west, with 110 miles to the next gas and services, so unless you have a fancy hybrid that can go 100′s of miles on a single tank, you’ll probably want to refuel here. Food options are pretty limited, as there is a Subway by the exit,and a Blimpie at the gas station in town.

Cedar City/Saint George – If you stopped in Green River, you’ll probably want to stop here, or go a little further to Saint George. You’ll have more dining options in Saint George, although we admittedly haven’t spent much time exploring non-fast food joints in Cedar City. 5 Buck Pizza looks promising, offering a medium pie with unlimited toppings for only $5. Saint George is home to the ever popular In-N-Out Burger, and also one of the funkier coffee shops around, Jazzy Java, which serves up tasty caffeinated beverages as well as delicious food.

Campgrounds

While this is a fairly simple drive to do in a single push, sometimes you get a later start than you’d like and you need a good place to crash for the night.

San Rafael Swell – Just west of Green River, this huge swath of BLM land offers numerous free camping options.

Fishlake National Forest – This is the stretch after the Swell, where you drive over some mountains. Consult a map for the best access to public land.

Parowan Gap – 15 minutes off I-15, about 20 miles north of Cedar City, this area offers free camping, and climbing too. See below for more info on that.

Walmart – For those who don’t know, Walmart allows free car camping in their parking lots. This is better than your average commando hotel parking lot because it’s ok if you go in and use the bathroom, and many are open 24 hours. Here are some key Walmarts along the way:

Grand Junction
Richfield
Cedar City
Saint George
Mesquite

Climbing Areas

Most of us are strapped for time and usually try to get where we are going as quickly as possible. That being said, if you have the time there is a plethora of climbing between here and there. Here are some of the more notable spots:

San Rafael Swell
About 30 minutes north of I-70 is some of the best Wingate crack climbing outside Indian Creek. Sunny walls and a range of grades make this a good spot for just about anyone. It’s also very scenic and rarely crowded. There is limited info on Mountain Project, and plenty of exploring to do.

Parowan
This is sport climbing on cobbles that are similar to Maple Canyon, a mere 20 minutes off I-15. See the Southwest Utah guidebook for more info.

Saint George
This town has it all, from Red Rocks style sandstone to some of the steepest limestone in the US.

Virgin River Gorge
The Puoux’s big brother, right off I-15. The climbing tends to be difficult and techy.

Local’s Beta

It’s the little things that make all the difference and here are a few nuggets we’ve picked up from our time there.

Urban Crag – Most visitors to Red Rocks know that if it rains you should really give the rock 24 hours to dry out, or you risking breaking off holds and possibly ruining a climb forever. It seems that few actually follow that advice, much to the dismay of the locals who will have to deal with destroyed routes long after we have all gone back home. So what to do the day after a storm when the sun is shining and you are jonesing to crush some rocks? Head to the Urban Crag, a funky little limestone cliff right on the edge of town. It boasts about a dozen routes from 5.7 to 5.12 on featured limestone. It’s fairly sheltered and gets sun until mid afternoon, and it’s only a 5 minute approach, about 5 minutes off I-15. There are a few other limestone outcrops in the vicinity, beta is available at Desert Rock Sports on Charleston.

Food Deals – One of the great things about climbing in Red Rocks is how you can go into town and get good food at places like Trader Joe’s, Whole Foods, etc. Some might dig the cheap buffets, but you’d probably get more nutrition from dog food. Anyway, we discovered two great deals last time we were there. One, the Whole Foods on Charleston has a deal with$1 tacos on certain days. The other was two for one drinks at Starbucks. Food and caffeine, and you are ready to roll!

Cheap Tickets – Most of us don’t go to Red Rocks to experience Vegas, but it is fun to spend a least one night on the strip, pretending to be a big shot or the guy in the movie 21. Most shows are pretty pricey, but Tix4Tonight offers big discounts on same day tickets, and is your best bet for a low cost evening on the Strip.

Feel free to add your own beta below, we’ll incorporate into this list to help create the best resource possible for road tripping to Vegas!

There are several guidebooks that do a good job of chronicling the many established problems, but there has also been a lot of recent development, and it was hard to get good info on this stuff. Until now, that is. A new site has launched, IndependenceBouldering.com, that offers a supberb guide to the more recent problems in the area.

Let’s say you’ve heard about the Treeline area, and that it’s somewhere near the Grotto’s Day Use Parking. Head on over to the Guide, find the Treeline Area under the Grotto’s Day Use section, and you can then click on each boulder to find out about the problems there. It’s a super slick interface, and would be incredible as an iPhone app. I’m not sure how you are supposed to print out all the info to take with you to the boulders, but perhaps that is in the works for future editions. Regardless, this is still an incredible resource for a wealth of new bouldering opportunities.

Aside from the excellent topos, you’ll also find a media section with photos (and promise of video coming soon), a message board, and some helpful local links. So if you are looking for some fun new problems on the Pass, head on over to IndependenceBouldering.com and check it out!

There are several established zones here, with the most popular being the Skillet, The Outpost and the Mental Block. A quick 15 minute hike from the parking area will bring you to the Skillet, where there are around 40 pitches from 5.9 to 5.13+ projects. The sandstone is like a mix between Eldo and Mill Creek, and the climbing here tends to be very technical and thoughtful. Most first time visitors describe it as awkward, weird and sandbagged. Once you get a feel for the stone, though, things will start to come together, and you might find that you really enjoy it. Don’t be discouraged if the first trip has you shaking your head about how hard those 5.10′s felt. They’ll be easier next time. Classic lines here include the fun Nose Job, 10b, the 35 meter Camel Head, 11b, and the techy Technician, 12b. Also, be sure not to miss the Chubby Pickle, a free standing sandstone tower with 3 excellent routes.

As you continue up the trail past the Pickle, in another 15 minutes or so you’ll come to the Outpost. The rock here is different from the Skillet, it’s more of a classic sandstone, with cracks, flakes and even some patina. This small but worthy crag offers 7 routes from 5.9 to 5.10, up to 50 feet tall. The one sport rig, Deja Vu, involves thoughtful climbing up nice patina edges that are reminiscent of Red Rocks. The other climbs tackle natural features, with a bolt here and there when the gear runs out. Don’t miss the splitter Bat Attack Crack, 5.10-, and the sustained Choss No More, 5.10.

A brief couple of minutes past the Outpost, you’ll find the Mental Block. This is the premier crag at the upper cliffs, with around 20 pitches from 5.9 to 5.13+ open projects. The views from here are spectacular, overlooking Reudi Resevoir and the Sawatch mountains beyond. It’s the kind of place you could spend the day just staring off into the distance, marveling at the beauty that surrounds you. But in case you snap out of it and want to get some pitches in, there’s a couple classics not to be missed. Elevate Your Mind, 12a, starts with some fun Kung Fu moves up a flake, then gets into a steep corner which leads to amazing patina at the top. Sandstoner offers 5.10 jamming the entire way, and the Mage is reported to be an excellent 5.13 outing. Also recommended is pretty much every route on the Upper Mental Block, including Clandestino, 12d trad, the Macaw, 5.10 trad, Via Viva, 12c bolted dihedral and Drunk Tank, 11 mixed dihedral.

For the adventurous few, there are even more routes past this, including some stellar 150′ 5.11′s, and thanks to Jeff Jackson and David Rasmussen there are new ones popping up all the time.

This time of year is perfect up there, with abundant sunshine and excellent temps. The Skillet is in the Rifle Mountain Park & Western Colorado Rock Climbs Book. Topos for the other areas are here (pdf’s):

Outpost

Mental Block 1

Mental Block 2

There is a place near Moab, Utah, where the rock is not good, the road is six inches away and the smell of urine assaults your nostrils on warm sunny days. Somehow, though, this is one of the most popular crags in Moab. Just goes to show, if you build it, they will come. So what is it with Wall Street, and why is it so popular despite all it’s shortcomings?

For starters, it get’s sun first thing in the morning. While other cliffs are still shaking off the previous night’s cold, Wall Street offers warm stone. And aside from the highway, which offers the chance to see just how close you can stand to a speeding semi, the setting is actually quite scenic. The Colorado River sits just a few yards away, and the towering orange cliffs glow in the sun.

As for the climbing, it takes place on the soft Navajo sandstone, which is a noticeable step down from the Wingate of Indian Creek and other crags around Moab. This does, however, lend itself to more face climbing options, and as such, there are many bolted routes on Wall Street. That alone is a big draw for many, who want to experience the climbing around Moab, but have little experience with desert cracks. It’s also convenient, with climbs lined up one right after another, so it’s easy to get in a lot of pitches, and you’ll often find locals running laps at the end of their work day.

The hardware at the area has been kept up well, with notable thanks to the ASCA and Sam Lightner, Jr, so you’ll rarely find yourself at an anchor that your worried might pull from the soft stone as you lower to the pavement. Many of the old drilled pins have been upgraded as well, as folks are finding out these things are not nearly as bomber as once assumed.

There are a wide variety of grades here, from bolted 5.7 slabs to elegant 5.11 trad lines to 5.12 crimp fests. It can be difficult, though, at an area like this, to find the best climbs. Many that are given stars in the guidebook really aren’t that good, given the sandy nature of the rock. For some guaranteed fun, however, check out the following routes: 30 Seconds Over Potash (5.8+), Flakes of Wrath (5.9+), Lucy in the Sky With Potash (5.10-), Baby Blue (5.11-), Static Cling (5.11) and Dark Horse (5.12).

Oh, one more thing. Before you go, know what you are getting into. With the highway close at hand, speeding semi trucks are the norm, and the scene often resembels a gym more than an outdoor crag. Expect crowds, and many people belaying out of lawn chairs. Hit it mid week in the colder months, though, and you can actually have a pretty fun time out there. As long as you don’t mind the trucks, sandy footholds, etc….

Ah November. That magical time of year when the sun is low in the sky, the day’s are short, and the weather is fickle. One day it’s 60 and sunny, the next it dumps a foot of snow. It can make road tripping a little cruxy, as it’s typical to have a weekend with one day of nice weather and the other day crap. Committing to drive to Moab or the Creek under such conditions feels like a gamble at times, but thankfully there’s another option that’s closer to home, and a simple day trip for many in western part of the state: Colorado National Monument.

This little slice of the Colorado Plateau sits just south and west of Grand Junction, and offers the full array of desert climbing experiences: big towers, splitter cracks, and sand…lots of sand. It’s the same rock you find around Moab and the Creek, Wingate, but for some reason it tends to be less varnished and more exposed on the tops of the towers. For this reason, there is a certain element of “funk” you can find on many routes there, but overall it’s still quality climbing.

On the tower front, you can start with one of the desert’s easiest offerings, Otto’s Route on Independence Monument, a mellow romp up an old piece of history. Other classic tower routes include the excellent Fast Draw on Sentinel Spire, the five pitch Long Dong on Kissing Couple and the burly Medicine Man, also on Sentinel Spire. Approaches range from low key hikes up canyon floors, to rappels from the rim with return via tyrolean or jugging back up your fixed line.

As for cragging, there’s several worthwhile zones, some that offer climbing reminiscent of Indian Creek. A nice combination is to hit a route on Independence Monument, and then some of the cragging pitches that line Monument Canyon. If you’re looking for splitter-esque routes, try Liberty Cap and Tiara Rado, both of which have sunny exposure and are good on colder days. We spent an enjoyable day of cragging at Liberty Cap last December, and temps couldn’t have been nicer.

Despite press in national mags and guidebooks, the area still remains relatively quiet. Many folks will keep on driving, to the classics (crowds?) further south. But for those who want to try something new, and maybe with a little more adventure, the Monument is a fine crag well worth checking out.

Most of the routes here are sport bolted, and very user friendly. If you do get a hankering to place some gear and get off the ground, checkout the Trooper Traverse (5.8) for a moderate, 5 pitch adventure. And if you want to step it up a notch, the Mother Load offers 3 long pitches of 5.10, with lots of good crack climbing thrown in.

Even without trad gear, you can still get some air under your butt, as there are several multipitch sport lines. That’s right, this is one of those rare spots (in Colorado anyway) where you can climb a couple pitches up with just a rack of quickdraws. Check out the 3 pitch Squid Kid (11b/c) or Printer Boy (11b) to Dazed & Confused (11a)  for 4 pitches of bolted fun.

Camping options abound, from a smattering of free sites, to paid camping at numerous forest service campgrounds with 15 minutes of the cliff. The most scenic has to be the camping at Twin Lakes, overlooking a pristine body of water surrounded by towering peaks.

So next time you’re wondering where to go for the weekend, head on over to Monitor. It’s a fun spot in a great setting, you wont be dissappointed.