5Point Film Festival April 24-27

Without a doubt, my favorite event of the year in Carbondale is the 5Point Film Festival. Over the last couple of years, it’s quietly become a premier gathering of outdoor film makers, with a focus on stories that reflect the festival’s five guiding principals: Respect, Commitment, Humility, Purpose & Balance. You’re more likely to watch […]

Pride and the Divinity of Toproping

Maybe you were born with the ability to flash V13, but I guarantee you still have days when you can’t keep a grip on the milk carton while pouring a bowl of cereal. It is a certainty that all climbers have good days, bad days and average days. This doesn’t make the bad days any […]

A Matter of Perspective

“After being back on those big routes for a couple of days, sport climbing feels pretty casual.” My partner was having a great afternoon at the crag, climbing beautifully up steep sport routes, even though we’d spent the last two days thrashing around on big climbs in the canyons of Red Rock. I was tired […]

Outdoor Retailer Winter Market 2014 Climbing Report

Did you see anything amazing? That’s the question I’m always asked when I tell people I’ve been at the Outdoor Retailer show. And the truth is, generally speaking, no, I didn’t see anything amazing. Not because people aren’t trying to innovate, but because you simply can’t be putting out amazing stuff all the time. Most […]

Old Climbing Websites Were Ugly!

Remember what old climbing websites used to look like? We don’t either, but thought it’d be fun to hop in the Wayback Machine to take a trip down memory lane. A few of these made us laugh out loud, we hope you’ll enjoy them as well. Gripped (11.3.99) There are no words, this is beyond […]

A Separate Reality

Climbing is still a fringe sport, though it hasn’t seemed that way here in Colorado for a long, long time. I was reminded of this while visiting my girlfriend’s family in Milan, Ohio, this Christmas. It’s understandable that people living in the flat farmlands of the Midwest would not be exposed to mountain sports as […]

Eight for Eight – Happy Anniversary to Us

While congratulating the Enormocast on their recent two year anniversary, it dawned on me that SplitterChoss is eight years old. Eight! That’s like 572 years in internet time. It’s been a grand adventure, and one that we are still on thanks to a fun crew on this side and a great group of fans on […]

5 Ways to Beat The Heat

I’m sitting here writing this in my upstairs office, without a shirt on. It’s hot, damn hot, and it’s been this way for a couple of weeks in the West. There is the promise of rain on the way this weekend, but here are some helpful tips for dealing with the heat should the waving […]

5 Climbing Towns Under 1000

Yeah, I know. Boulder (or Seattle, or Salt Lake City) is the best climbing town in the US of A. Any day of the week, I could climb classics of any grade, in any discipline of the sport. The best in the world come to climb and train there, and have for the past forty […]

Death Grip: A Climber’s Escape from Benzo Madness

His hammer swung wildly at the bolt. It was binding up in the hole, and he demonstrated little patience for the stubborn installation in the hard rock. I had first met Matt Samet a month earlier while developing a new crag outside Carbondale. His slovenly appearance didn’t seem to match his impressive record as a […]

Let the Adventures Begin!

It’s been a cold winter. There have been climbable days here and there, but for whatever reason, my schedule hasn’t lined up for me to take advantage of them, so I’ve been spending most of my time in the gym. It’s been great to focus on training, and getting better at climbing, but I didn’t […]

Waiting for the Moment

In surfing, you wait for the waves. For skiing, it needs to snow. With rock climbing, the cliff is always there. But ice climbing is different. Ice climbing is all about conditions, and perhaps that’s what makes it so appealing. As climbers, it’s the one thing we do where the right conditions are essential. In […]

So You Want to Write A Guidebook

I’ve been working on a guidebook, an update, actually, to the previous one for our area. This time around, we are splitting it into two books, as there are hundreds of new climbs, several previously unpublished areas, and some great photos of it all. The interesting thing about writing a guidebook is that it’s basically […]

Does the Off Season Exist Anymore?

At first, I was surprised. What were so many people doing here on a Monday, during the first week of October? We were on a school trip to Indian Creek, and there were quite a few folks hanging out in the main campground. Don’t they know Creek season starts in November, when the climbing everywhere […]

Have I Told You Lately That I Love You?

Partners are so underrated. As climbers, we often like to think of ourselves as rugged individualists, but the truth is, without a partner, climbing isn’t a whole lot of fun. Sure, you can go out and chuck solo laps on a micro traxion, but that’s like going to the movies by yourself. Sort of fun, […]

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Locals Corner

Redstone Ice Conditions 1.8.14

The ice in Redstone is in great shape, with all the standards looking good and many other things to climb on as well. Here are the details: Banzai Pipeline – has ice on it, may be climbable but will be very hard. The bolted route to its right is doable. Avocado Gully – In typical […]

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