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Some Day I’ll Crimp Like a Real Boy

“Oh, this hold IS bad. You never know with you!” For years, the sport climbing at Red Rocks stifled me. Some people like to go on and on about how soft the grades are there, but I couldn’t have disagreed more. Grades I could onsight at steeper, juggier areas, I couldn’t even do on top […]

Take a Holiday in Spain

Pick up any climbing magazine, and chances are you’ll find an article or two about exotic crags in other countries, complete with pictures of flowing tufas, orange and blue cliffs, the stuff that dreams are made of. As tempting as those gorgeous photos are, I’ve never really had grand ambitions to climb internationally. For me, […]

A Question of Balance

I’ve been finding it difficult to write about climbing these days. After visiting the Outdoor Retailer show, it felt petty to post up about a bunch of climbing gear when so many issues of greater importance were dominating the news. It’s also been hard not to get sucked down the bad-news rabbit hole each morning, […]

2017 Winter Outdoor Retailer Climbing Report

I only had a day to check out the Winter Outdoor Retailer show, but it was packed from start to finish and I got to check out a lot of the new stuff that’s coming out. As usual, nothing groundbreaking, but many small innovations and refinements. A brief recap follows, let me know in the […]

Bulldog Creek Dog Walk (IV WI 4+)

Hayden Carpenter and Tom Bohanon recently repeated an obscure ice climb on the south side of Mt Sopris. Given a brief mention in Jack Robert’s ice guide, Bulldog Creek Walk is described as being 100 meters of WI 4. What they found was seven pitches of ice in a remote setting that makes for one […]

Joshua Tree Redux

The last time I visited Joshua Tree was in 2009. We’d been in So Cal for some concerts, and when they were over we had two days to spend there before heading back home. I left that trip with the impression that it was a stunning place, but the climbing could be summed up as […]

2016 Holiday Gift Guide for Climbers

It’s that time of year again, time to worship at the altar of capitalism celebrate the holidays with friends and loved ones. And nothing says “I care” more than getting that special climber in your life the perfect piece of gear they’ve been missing. Below is a list of what we feel is some of […]

The More You Know…

“People have no imagination for all the ways they can die. This is how we die, not finishing our knots and rappelling off the end of ropes!” – EH Almost every spring, we spend a week or two in Red Rocks. I’ve got family there, and with basically every style of climbing you could ask […]

A Crash Course in Confidence

The re-entry into trad climbing was a little rugged. Right off the belay on the second pitch, I was thrutching up a squeeze chimney with no gear for a ways. The climbing wasn’t hard, but I’ve never loved chimneys, some think they feel secure but I often feel like I could slip out at any […]

Outdoor Retailer Summer 2016 Climbing Report

The Outdoor Retailer show can be overwhelming, especially the first couple times you go. Walking around the massive Salt Palace Convention Center with its endless booths and hustle of people, it feels like some kind of giant music festival, minus the hippies selling veggie burritos. Even after almost 30 trips to Salt Lake for this […]

Going With the Flow

I’ve been really digging this summer. Maybe because winter was so long this year, every warm day feels like such a gift. I love the simplicity of going out with nothing but shorts and a t-shirt, and maybe a light rain jacket in the pack. The ease of access into the mountains is wonderful, you […]

Confessions of a Tight Shoe Addict

Hello, my name is BJ and I am a recovering tight shoe addict. When I first moved to Colorado 15 years ago, I fell in with a crew that encouraged me to get my shoes really tight. So my first pair of Miura’s were 42s (I have a size 12/46 street shoe). This went on […]

The Real Problem with Bolts in America

And what can be done about it. There’s been a lot of press over the last couple of years given to the state of bolts in the United States, specifically in regards to how many of the first sport climbing areas are reaching that point where the original bolts are nearing the end of their […]

Letter to the Newbs

After spending some time in Red Rocks this spring, I saw a lot of newer climbers struggling to find crags, climbs, etc. And while newbs are often the target of criticism by more experienced climbers, I thought I send some encouragement out to those who are just getting started. Dear newbs, Welcome to rock climbing! […]

You’ve Come A Long Way, Baby

As many locals know, the new guidebook is finally here! I dug out the original Western Sloper for comparison, which Dave Pegg wrote back in 2002. It covered Rifle, The Fortress, No Name, the Puoux and the Redstone boulders, and was 72 pages. Fourteen years later, what was one, small book is now two volumes, […]

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Locals Corner

Bulldog Creek Dog Walk (IV WI 4+)

Hayden Carpenter and Tom Bohanon recently repeated an obscure ice climb on the south side of Mt Sopris. Given a brief mention in Jack Robert’s ice guide, Bulldog Creek Walk is described as being 100 meters of WI 4. What they found was seven pitches of ice in a remote setting that makes for one […]

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