Rants

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Climbing Ethics vs Climbing Fun

As climbing becomes more popular, will old, dangerous routes be upgraded with modern hardware to provide more user friendly, safe climbing for the masses? Or will the old guard defend these testaments to climbing’s past to the death?

March 4th, 2010 | BJ Sbarra | 4 comments | Continued
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Thankful

As I drove north to spend Thanksgiving in Idaho, I thought about all we have to be thankful for. Not just the fact that we live in the most privileged country in the world where anything is possible, but how incredibly fortunate we are to experience the world through rock climbing. I mean, our lamest [...]

November 26th, 2009 | BJ Sbarra | 0 comments | Continued
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How Long Can It Last?

I spent several days last week working/climbing along Potash Road outside Moab, UT. For those who haven’t been, it’s Navajo sandstone, which is softer than Wingate, the stuff at Indian Creek. It’s a popular crag, however, being right off the road and offering many bolted pitches, which is somewhat rare in the Utah desert. Anyhow, [...]

October 28th, 2009 | BJ Sbarra | 4 comments | Continued
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Rock Shoe Rant

I’m feeling like ranting today, but instead of going off on this video I just saw about how if we all rode bikes then global warming would go away (a huge crock of sh%t), I’ll focus on something a little more relevant: trying on rock climbing shoes. A common problem I’ve run into whenever I [...]

October 8th, 2009 | BJ Sbarra | 24 comments | Continued
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I Love Climbing, But It’s Kind of a Pain in the Ass

I’ve been having this conversation a lot recently, how climbing is so amazing, but at the same time how much it sucks because to do it well, you have to put so much into it. I was recently explaining to some new comers that you have to climb three to four days per week to [...]

July 29th, 2009 | BJ Sbarra | 14 comments | Continued
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You Gotta Know When to Hold ‘Em

You walk outside and look at the sky. The change from an hour ago is incredible. Where there had once been bright blue there are now towering clouds, sure signs of heavy moisture in the air, as it is only 10:30 in the morning. Afternoon thunderstorms are normal during the summer in Colorado, but this [...]

June 3rd, 2009 | BJ Sbarra | 1 comment | Continued
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We’re All in This Together

As I was hiking up to a local crag last week, I noticed some new stone steps that had been installed on the steep trail. At first I didn’t think much of it, but as I continued up, it became clear that someone had put some serious effort into improving this slidey path. I figured [...]

June 2nd, 2009 | BJ Sbarra | 1 comment | Continued
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Who’ll Stop the Rain

As we enter our seventh day in a row of rain here in western Colorado, many folks are beginning to wonder, who indeed will stop this rain?

May 26th, 2009 | BJ Sbarra | 0 comments | Continued
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Climber’s Guide to the Public

If you’ve been a climber for any length of time, you’ve no doubt had some awkward conversations with the general public about it. When it comes to public awareness of our sport, at least in this country, the average citizen is woefully uneducated about climbing. Here’s a list of some of my favorite things I [...]

April 29th, 2009 | BJ Sbarra | 6 comments | Continued
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Saftey First

By Mike Schneiter
A recent ice climbing accident on the Rigid Designator in Vail has garnered some attention, most notably because the error that caused the accident was something most climbers learn their first day out: never lower on a rope running through webbing slings, as it can burn through and sever them. Apparently this guy [...]

April 22nd, 2009 | Mike Schneiter | 2 comments | Continued
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Choss Master vs Choss Monkey

Choss Master – a person who enjoys climbing on choss…. Now just a second there, professor. I feel I need to take a moment this morning to clear up a misconception that is spreading in the climbing world. After bailing off a climb in Red Rocks recently, I later referred to it as “the chossiest [...]

April 14th, 2009 | BJ Sbarra | 0 comments | Continued