Route of the Month

The Mother Lode – Route of the Month

On the east side of Independence Pass, on the flanks of the highest peak in Colorado, sits a wonderful crag of compact alpine granite. Featuring some of the finest 5.10 sport climbing in the state, Monitor Rock is known by most for its excellent bolted routes. There is, however, a hidden trad gem lurking among […]

Colorado National Monument’s Best Routes

Colorado National Monument’s Best Routes

While there’s no lack of rock more suspect than a congressional budget, the truth is there are several excellent adventure routes here that offer fun climbing on mostly good stone in a spectacular desert landscape.

5 Best 5.9 Trad Routes in the US

5 Best 5.9 Trad Routes in the US

There is a treasure trove of 5.9 routes established in the 50’s, 60’s, and 70s’ that is within reach of average climbers like me. They combine the perfect combination of “hard enough to be interesting/ easy enough to get the free climbing flow.” Herewith a tribute to my Personal Top Five 5.9 Trad Climbs.

Obscurity in the Desert

Obscurity in the Desert

The Colorado Plateau is not known for it’s face climbing. There are a few exceptions out there, but generally Wingate is too steep and Navajo is just downright soft, and you are better off sticking to the cracks. That being said, we had heard about a relatively new route in a canyon outside Moab that follows a line of massive huecos up a wall.

The Drool – Route of the Month

The Drool – Route of the Month

For a long time the Drool was one of those local secrets that, like Fight Club, you just didn’t talk about (due to sensitive access.) Thankfully that all changed a couple years ago when Pitkin County Open Space bought the property the climb sits on, and you no longer have to hike in looking over […]

Comic Relief – Route of the Month

Comic Relief – Route of the Month

For many trad climbers in Colorado, the arrival of fall means one thing: it’s time to head to the Black Canyon. The scorching heat of summer has finally relented, giving way to perfect bluebird days. While some would say the Black’s fearsome reputation has decreased in recent years, this is stll very much a place […]

Northwest Buttress of Capitol Peak – Route of the Month

Northwest Buttress of Capitol Peak – Route of the Month

Deep in the heart of the Elk Mountains lurks a route so fearsome, people only whisper its name in conversation: “I hear it’s a tottering pile of choss.” “I hear you don’t get any good gear for 1000 feet.” “I heard Michael Kennedy soloed it naked in mountain boots.” I can’t vouch for the last […]

Mitten Slab – Route of the Month

Mitten Slab – Route of the Month

By Lynn Sanson Having lived in Estes Park for 7 years I was spoiled with many easily accessible moderate multi-pitch routes. While Carbondale has great local crags, there are few options where one can go to get off the ground without driving an hour plus. So my interest was peaked when I heard about a […]

Medicine Man – Route of the Month

Medicine Man – Route of the Month

By Mike Schneiter Every spring weekend, scores of cars pass by Colorado National Monument on their way to climbing destinations in Moab and the surrounding desert. Generally, the Monument is thought of as being a lesser climbing destination, and the mantra of “for every good pitch, there’s a bad pitch” does hold true on the […]

Avocado Gully – Route of the Month

Avocado Gully – Route of the Month

One of the unique and appealing things about ice climbing is how it can change from day to day. One day the ice is fat and plastic, the next it could be thin and brittle. The same climb can offer an incredible variety of climbing experiences as the season progresses. And nowhere is this more […]

Locals Corner

Redstone Ice Conditions 1.8.14

The ice in Redstone is in great shape, with all the standards looking good and many other things to climb on as well. Here are the details: Banzai Pipeline – has ice on it, may be climbable but will be very hard. The bolted route to its right is doable. Avocado Gully – In typical […]

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