Black Diamond put out an excellent post yesterday regarding the dangers of using daisy chains for anything other than aid climbing. The author, BD’s quality control guru, stated how he constantly sees people using them for both cleaning anchors and anchoring in on multipitch routes, which are functions they are not designed for.
We’ve spent much of the summer in town this year, enjoying several of the good local sport crags. As such, I’ve gotten my sport climbing systems fully dialed, and present to you my Sport Climbing Toolkit.
There was no sugar coating it, I was getting a beat down. This normally wouldn’t surprise me, but it was on grades that I can comfortably climb at our home crags, so I was feeling a little frustrated.
It was a beautiful new rope. 9.8mm, 70 meters long, and day glow yellow. It had been made only the week before, and we were now the proud owners. We knew the color would pick up dirt quickly, but we never could have guessed that our beacon of light would fade so quickly. Our last [...]
While many areas have seen updated versions, there are likely still some older books in your collection that may not be holding up so well. A common problem is that pages start falling out, which is usually the beginning of the end for a guidebook. However, there is a simple fix to remedy this problem and get many more years of use out of that trusty guide (or at least until the fancy new color version that costs $40 comes out.)
Your wife just announced she is pregnant and your family is about to grow by plus one, but all you can think about is what happened to our summer of climbing, camping, and road trips? Yes, your life is about to change, but getting out and pulling down doesn’t have to grind to a halt.
Will Gadd is in the middle of one of his biggest season’s of pure ice ever, and as such, has offered up some handy tips over on his blog. Here’s a couple that really stood out with my thoughts on each. “If you get a stuck tool regularly you’re likely placing them both at the [...]
Every year the sun gets lower in the sky, the temps drop and most folks in the valley switch over to winter sports. Skiing, snowboarding, and for the demented few, ice climbing, replace our rock climbing ambitions until the warmer days of spring find us back out at the crags. But not everyone embraces these [...]
by Mike Schneiter Steve and I had set out that morning on what seemed like an audacious mission for two everyday climbers: 31 pitches of climbing with a few thousand feet of vertical gain, a 5 mile hike and a hitch-hiking return to Yosemite Valley. Our objective of climbing the classic Crest Jewel Direct on [...]
Picture this: It’s the end of a long day of cragging. You’ve been pushing it hard all day, and with the light fading you’re anxious to get back to the car and some ice cold PBR’s. You rig the last rappel, a full 30m off the ground, and cast off. Soon after leaving the anchor [...]