Aliens (Fixe Hardware)

The rumors are true, Aliens are back and they’ll be coming to the US in September through Fixe. They will be available in about a dozen select retailers across the country, you will NOT be able to get them online. Look for more info coming soon at fixehardware.com.

Black Diamond

Lots of new stuff here, including backpacking-specific packs that incorporate the ergoACTIV technology, a whole slew of trekking poles and some headlamp upgrades featuring the updated Icon, now 200 lumens (the old was 90!). Ice fiends will no dobut be drawn to the Stinger, a stainless steel mono point crampon. The Oz gets the same treatment as the HoodWire, offering keylock functionality while retaining the same weight.

And then there’s the Magnetron, which was indeed pretty cool to play with. Nothing groundbreaking, though the technology is fun, and it’s stronger than traditional screwgate biners. Patience will be key here, though, as it’s not going to be out until Fall 2012. The Tracer helmet gets replaced by the Vector, weighing in at a scant 8.5 oz, and there are three new harnesses, the Flight and Siren for the sport crowd, and the Focus for trad. They offer updated, techy features at more reasonable prices than you’ll get on the higher end models (69.95 and 79.95, respectively).

Deuter

The new Speedlite 30 is a great looking summit pack, weighing in at less than 2lbs, and retailing for $99.

Edelrid

This was a new company for us to check out, and I was really impressed. A couple highlights: For one, they’ve developed a new manufacturing process for creating bi-pattern ropes, which has allowed them to cut the cost significantly. They’ve got a fancy new rope bag called the Caddy, which holds the rope in the middle of the tarp with a bucket-like depression. And a new helmet that really cradles the back of your head better than any model I’ve seen out there, even unbuckled it wont fall off. Parents will be psyched about the new kids harness, a few folks were even trying to buy them at the show for their kids! You could feel a lot of psyche with these guys and I’d say they are one of the brands to watch for some cool things coming down the pipe in the future.

Evolv

This is one company that always seems to be looking for new innovations, and ways to improve their existing products. First, the upgrades: The Defy and Elektra get lace-up versions, the Prime gets a lace-up version, as well as 3 straps on the velcro, and the Pontas gets some minor tweaks. For new stuff, trad daddies were swooning over the Astroman, a shoe designed from the ground up by none other than Peter Croft himself. This all leather shoe has a retro look, and will compete with the likes of the TC Pro and other high end trad shoes. (We’re hoping to get it down to the Creek this winter for some hands on testing and report back.) And for women, and men with low volume feet, there’s the Shaman LV. They also have two new approach shoes, the Bolt and Captain, which we’ll hopefully be testing as part of our upcoming approach shoe review.

Five Ten

It was a pretty quiet this show for these guys, but they do have an updated Team shoe that’s supposed to be easier to get on, and the Descent looks like a stylish new approach shoe. We were saddened to learn the Super Moc isn’t going to be in the line next year, guess the market was just too small.

Gregory

Sadly my beloved Serac is going away, but it’s being replaced by the Savant, which looks to be an improvement in every sense, and is available in 38,48, or 58 liter sizes.

Mammut

To celebrate their 150th anniversary, not only have they launched an ambitious goal to put 150 teams on 150 different summits, but they are also offering two limited edition ropes: the Golden Rope, and the Swiss Rope, both 9.5′s (the gold one actually sparkles!) The El Cap helmet brings some much needed style to the world of climbing helmets, and the Zephyr Altitude is an extremely lightweight alpine climbing harness.

But perhaps the most interesting thing they’ve got going is the introduction of the 9.8 Transformer rope, made of “transfer” yarns that are usually discarded because of their mixture of colors. The result is less waste from the rope making process, and a unique rope pattern that changes every meter. They are also using this process with their Transformer slings. Some companies talk a lot about being green, others simply make it happen, very cool to see.

Metolius

I’ve always admired Metolius as a company, they make high quality gear, much of which is still manufactured in the USA (unlike most of their competitors). Their Safer by Design philosophy has produced some great products, but their harnesses seemed to be getting left behind recently as other companies moved towards lighter and lighter models. This has all changed with the new SafeTech Comp and Trad harnesses, with upgraded, lightweight materials, speed buckles, and the usual features you expect from the SafeTech line. They’ve also got a new helmet coming out, super light, and it’s orange taboot!

Outdoor Research

Having long left the “gaiter and dorky hat people” moniker in the dust, these guys are putting out high quality clothing, and at an impressive rate. The highlight of the spring line is the Axiom Jacket, a technical piece featuring Gore’s Active Shell fabric, which blends the performance of a soft and hard shell into one lightweight package (13.5oz). The Helium 2 is lighter version of its predecessor, which clocks in at a measly 6.5 oz. The Mithrilite is a spring and summer alpine climbing soft shell with a waterproof laminate, and the popular Ferrosi line gets a windshirt, which could easily become that one layer you always keep in your pack.

Patagonia Footwear

The Cragmaster is a new, no frills approach shoe that harkens back to a simpler time, but with modern materials. The lacing system looks to provide an excellent fit, and EVA footbed and insole should provide excellent cushioning.

Petzl

A couple fun things here. The Lynx is a new crampon that you can modify and adjust in every capacity you could want. The Reverso 4 is a lighter version of the previous device, which happens to be our personal favorite for mulitpitch routes. And the Micro Traxion will be replacing the Mini Traxion with a better pulley system, plus it’s lighter and stronger.

Princeton Tec

A few new headlamps here, including the 200 lumen Apex, sure to give the new BD Icon a run for its money. They also have a unique design-your-own-headlamp program, called the Spectrum, where you can pick from a multitude of different colors for different components to make your own custom Fuel or Remix headlamp.

Rab

Rab had the usual assortment of getting-ever-lighter technical apparel. I’d bet these guys will be the first to bring us a waterproof breathable shell that weight -1 oz. I don’t know how, but my bets are on them. New this spring is the Volt, a 13oz technical climbing shell, the Spark, a technical shell that clocks in at only 9 ounces, and the Pulse, a 7oz fully waterproof rig. For soft shell aficionados there’s the Scimitar, basically a hooded version of the Sawtooh jacket. They’ve also got a new sleeping bag, the Infinity, an eleven ounce, zero degree down bag that utilizes vertical baffles to provide better insulation.

Scarpa

First up were two new alpine climbing boots, the Rebel GTX Carbon, designed with input from Ueli Steck, and the Maverick GTX, a similar but beefier version. The Gecko Guide remains their high end approach shoe, but for those who want something a little less stout, they will be offering up the Crux. It looks to be a solid performer at a very reasonable price ($99).

The big news on the climbing front is the Boostic, a shoe that’s as much a work of art as it is an engineering marvel. Conceived in the mind of master shoe designer Heinz Mariacher, this shoe combines an aggressive shape, strategic use of Lorica and leather in key locations, and XS Edge rubber to bring one of the most technological advanced shoes out there to market.

La Sportiva

I really dig Sportiva. In the race to put out the next great product, they are like the turtle, slow and steady. Rarely do they have a slew of new product on display, but what they have is often well thought out, and adds something legit to their already robust line. On the rock shoe front, they present the Futura. Picture the Solution and the Speedster having a kid. It’s got the same sole as the Speedster, with no edge, but the closure of the Solution. Looks to be a steep climbing weapon. In the approach category, they’ve got a mid top Boulder X, with Gore-Tex, and the Xlporer and Hyper GTX, more all arounders that should be popular. And the Vertical K looks to be the next best super light approach shoe for long routes that you’ll be walking off of.

In Other News…

Prana had a great selection of new digs, including the popular Mojo short updated with the Chakara fabric, offering incredible freedom of movement. Osprey has a new quiver of one pack, the Kestrel, in a variety of sizes from 28 to 68L. Sterling had a bling new rope color for the Nano, peachy orange. Big Agnes is touting an incredibly thick and plush sleeping pad sure to please the car camping crowd.  Julbo has some lightweight sunglasses that look great for both rock and ice, thanks to the photochromatic lenses. We also saw great stuff from Sanuk, Stanley, Native, Mountain Khaki and others. What a show!

View a complete gallery of shots from the summer show:

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12►

After that sobering experience, I went out and bought two things, a Gri-Gri, and a helmet that finally fit. I gave away the big, clunky, uncomfortable one that someone had given to me, and which I had a host of reasons for not wearing. It still took many years, however, after buying that first blue Petzl Elios helmet, to finally commit to wearing it consistently. I would often leave it at home, or in the bottom of my pack, continually justifying it to myself with thoughts like, I’m ONLY going sport climbing, or, I’m going to an area with solid rock.

These days, I live in the land of the infamous “Splitter Choss,” where the rock isn’t always as solid as one might hope. And, I can finally, proudly say I now take my helmet wearing seriously.

As such, it was exciting news when I saw the ads for the new Petzl Elia helmet, encouraging Steven Segal to re-grow his manly locks because this was the perfect brain bucket for him. I, like many, laughed at the creativity of the marketing campaign, while at the same time was intrigued by the idea of a helmet that you could rock a pony tail in. Although they included Segal in their ad campaign, the Elia is most definitely a women’s specific helmet (though there probably ARE some men who might enjoy it as well.)

When my Elia arrived, I could tell right out of the box that it was different from other helmet designs I had seen before. They didn’t just take a dude’s helmet and make it pink. Like most Petzl products, they developed well thought out features that come together to make a high performance women’s helmet.

Here’s a brief rundown of the features that I’ve found most useful over your standard helmet:

• Instead of having a behind-the-head adjuster system, they moved it to the side, so that it won’t tangle in your hair.
• The helmet suspension is adjustable from top to bottom, but sits high on the head allowing for a pony tail or varying thicknesses of hair.
• Despite sitting high, it’s a low profile helmet so that you don’t feel like a mushroom head.
• Often it’s simpler to throw my hair in a pony tail, versus the two girly braids that 9 out of 10 climber ladies wear, (and which is often required with other helmets) so in essence it’s made my life that much simpler.

The colors are pretty good, though the blue I have is probably my least favorite, but it’s what was available at the time I got it.

Apparently the magazine ads are working, because other women often take notice of the Elia out at the crags, and once they try it on several have proclaimed that they were going to go home and order one that evening. I guess Petzl found a solid niche with this one.

Now, it’s not all roses, but the only real gripe I have with the Elia is the size of the helmet (52-58 centimeters). This range is a little big for my head, and it’s a bit puzzling to me that they didn’t offer it in two sizes like their popular Elios and Altios models. Both of those have a small size with a range of 48-56cm, which is ideal for someone like myself. So if you know you need a smaller helmet, you should keep that in mind while checking out the Elia, as it might not offer a proper fit, despite all its other benefits.

Overall, though, the Petzl Elia is an excellent helmet with thoughtful features that most women climbers will find is a worthwhile step up from what they are currently wearing.

So send in your photos, or just send us a link to the photo you’ve posted elsewhere online, like Flickr, etc.

Good Luck!