Mitten Slab – Route of the Month

By Lynn Sanson

Having lived in Estes Park for 7 years I was spoiled with many easily accessible moderate multi-pitch routes. While Carbondale has great local crags, there are few options where one can go to get off the ground without driving an hour plus. So my interest was peaked when I heard about a 5-pitch moderate just north of Rifle: The Mitten Slab, 5.10, at the Rifle Arch climbing area. The approach for this climb starts at a large pullout just past mile marker 7 on the way to Meeker on Colorado off  Highway 13. The hike takes 30+ minutes and is pretty mellow. Just before reaching the Arch, there is a cairned climbers trail breaking left to the base of a number of sport routes, Mitten Slab is at the far left.

Back in March my son Tobin and I headed over to the Slab on a warm Saturday morning. Arriving at the base we were the only climbers in sight and it remained that way while we were on the route. The Rifle Mountain Park guidebook says this is a 5 pitch route, we thought we could outsmart the book and run pitches together. While it did work, it also created some hideous rope drag at inopportune times, and I’d recommend following the book’s description.

The first pitch is a route in its own right, and is called Shortbus Challenge, a mellow slab to a fixed anchor just below an arching roof at a somewhat uncomfortable stance.

Pitch two is the crux of the route, pulling through a bulge on small holds to a nice ledge with a fixed anchor. Being tall will help on this pitch. Pitches three, four and five follow flakes up the slab at a moderate grade (5.8 – 5.9), and you’ll probably want some long slings to alleviate rope drag on the fourth pitch.

Once on top, the descent is straightforward via several short raps down fixed anchors. With so many rope snagging flakes, keeping the raps short is advisable if you want to avoid rappel hell.

And there you have a 450 foot, 5 pitch route. All you need is 10-12 draws, some long slings, a 60m rope and maybe a .75 Camalot. Actually the only gear placement is not really necessary as the climbing is very easy at the only spot you can place the piece. This route faces south and gets full sun; fall, winter and spring are the seasons of choice. There are tremendous views looking south to Mamm Peak and to the west at the Roan Cliffs. With comfortable ledges (minus pitch one), this is a great way to spend a morning or afternoon soaking up the sun, climbing slabs and enjoying the views.

Lynn Sanson lives in Carbondale and can’t wait to take his newly acquired developing skills and put them to use on the local choss. This is his first guest blog for SplitterChoss.com.