Injury Advice

The Best Training Plans You’ve Never Heard Of

The Best Training Plans You’ve Never Heard Of

Everybody is training these days. Pros, recreational climbers, even folks who’ve only been at it for a couple months think they need to train. And there’s no lack of information out there, in fact, maybe the hardest part of finding a training plan is sorting through all the noise to figure out what actually works. […]

No Friends on Rehab Days

No Friends on Rehab Days

I recently read this hilarious article written by Kevin Corrigan at Climbing Mag about how one of the worst parts about being injured is that you stop seeing all your climbing friends, which is sometimes the majority of your friend group. This really hit home for me, as I’ve spent the last six weeks rehabbing […]

7 Reasons Why Pulley Injuries Suck

7 Reasons Why Pulley Injuries Suck

In an ironic twist after my last post about learning to crimp, here I am with a tweaked pulley. I’m not totally sure where it came from, there was no major incident, no big pop. I started to notice it was a little sore a couple weeks ago, but like Kris Hampton says, if you […]

Training With a Finger Injury

Disclaimer: I am not a doctor. You have no reason to listen to what I have to say. Everyone’s bodies are different, and just because this worked for me doesn’t mean it will work for you. But if you are curious, read on… Back in mid-July, I strained a finger tendon. It was a bit […]

Warm Up? We Don’t Need No Stinkin’ Warm Up!

Nothing makes me cringe more* than watching a climber walk up to the crag and start their day on a steep, crimpy route with powerful cruxes. I usually have to look away for fear I’ll actually see his tendons explode, and never want to touch another crimp again. From observing hundreds of climbers over the […]

In Praise of Rest Days

Rest days are a concept I see a lot of climbers struggle with, often packing too much climbing into the course of the week. On the surface, this usually leads to a gradual decline in performance. On a more serious level, it can lead to nasty overuse injuries, some of which can easily become chronic problems they’ll deal with for many years.

Injury Advice: Dealing With “Tweaks”

Let’s face it, climbing is hard on the body. In fact, it’s on a long list of things that the human body was never intended for: jumping off buildings with parachutes on, hucking 30 foot cliffs on skis, lifting massive amounts of weight, dangling from our finger tips, etc. Even so, it still comes as […]

Injury Prevention

We’ve already covered what to do if/when you get hurt, and how to come back the right way, so this month we’re looking at ways to maintain your health once you get it back and how to prevent injuries from happening in the first place.

Coming Back From Injury

The biggest mistake most climbers make with injuries is coming back too soon. Obviously it’s hard to stay away from the sport you love, but if you don’t give an injury enough time to heal, it can easily turn into a chronic issue you will battle the rest of your life.

Snap, Crackle, Pop – Now What?

Snap, Crackle, Pop – Now What?

So you’re out on a climb, and something goes wrong. Maybe its a crunch in your shoulder, maybe its a loud pop in your hand (so loud in fact your partner thinks you broke some rock off), or maybe it’s more subtle, something you notice at the end of the day. What should you do?

Locals Corner

Bulldog Creek Dog Walk (IV WI 4+)

Hayden Carpenter and Tom Bohanon recently repeated an obscure ice climb on the south side of Mt Sopris. Given a brief mention in Jack Robert’s ice guide, Bulldog Creek Walk is described as being 100 meters of WI 4. What they found was seven pitches of ice in a remote setting that makes for one […]

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