No Name Canyon

No Name Canyon

No Name is a small but fun granite climbing area just outside of Glenwood. You can climb almost year round depending on the aspect of the cliffs. The established routes are all trad, including a few spicy faces. There is also some bouldering in the area.

Season: Spring through fall is best. Winter is cold and the area doesn’t get much sun.

Directions: Take Exit #119 from I-70 and head north up narrow road through residential area. About 1/2 mile from the interstate the road ends (gate) and there is a small parking lot and trailhead for the Jesse Weaver Trailhead. Park and hike up the small dirt road to the climbs. 5 minute hike.

Guidebooks: Western Sloper by David Pegg

Beginner’s Slab

First climbable rock on your right, right off road. Short slab with wide crack on left side and tree with slings on top. Well constructed trail leads for 30 second approach.

CMC Wall – Gray Face

The CMC Wall is easily discernible as the tall cliff on the right side of the road. Walk past the cliff to where the trail meets the road and hike to the right. The Gray Face is on the far right side. Sometimes called the Ironing Board.

Unnamed, 5.9
Great route on far right side. To the left of Jungle Book begin in a thin crack on laybacks and continue up a crack that widens. At the large ledge on top, you can continue another twenty feet to top (no anchors) or make a delicate move around the corner of the large summit block to anchors.

Unnamed, 5.10b PG
Climb the first 2/3 of the 5.9 route and then head left on the thin crack. Bring small protection.

Jungle Book, 5.6
The far right route with a large ledge about 15 feet from the ground.

CMC Wall – Pink Face

Tall face to the left of the Gray Face. Accessed by scrambling down and left of anchors on Gray Face or by scrambling up and left from base of Gray Face.

Left Route, 5.10d
Left route on face. Finishes at same anchors as Right 5.10d. Watch for wasps in crack when sun is out.

Right Route, 5.10d
Really fun, steep crack.

Unnamed, 5.5
To the right of the Pink Face is a low angle hand crack right of the corner. Fun climbing.

Poison Ivy Wall

Located on the west side of the canyon.

Sumac, 5.9
1st crack on the left side of the wall. Same anchors as Poison Ivy

Poison Ivy, 5.9
Second set of cracks from left. Right of arete with an old piton.

Ivy League, 5.10a
Climb Poison Ivy and continue up right-angling crack and slab to slings around tree. 100 feet, watch your rope when descending.

Railroad Cracks, 5.8
Third set of cracks from left. Twin cracks.

The Sickle, 5.10c
Start at the arching finger crack right of the Railroad Cracks. Joins the wide crack and finishes at anchors under a roof.

Thanks to Mike Schneiter for this information.

Locals Corner

Redstone Ice Conditions 1.8.14

The ice in Redstone is in great shape, with all the standards looking good and many other things to climb on as well. Here are the details: Banzai Pipeline – has ice on it, may be climbable but will be very hard. The bolted route to its right is doable. Avocado Gully – In typical […]

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