26th February 2007

Patagonia Down Parka - A Warm Fuzzy Feeling

For the longest time, Patagonia didn’t offer an oversized expedition style down parka. They had jackets that worked well for sitting around the fire, but really came up short in the belay jacket category. The DAS parka was a step in the right direction, and on days when I know I might get wet, I’ll bring this synthetic jacket. Last winter they introduced the down parka, finally giving us a great belay jacket with all the benefits of down. This thing is incredibly warm, even my wife thinks so and she is always cold. I sized mine to fit easily over layers and after climbing a pitch of ice it’s like slipping into a warm cozy sleeping bag. The internal pockets are great for drying out gloves and the hood is huge, easily fitting over a helmet. It doesn’t appear as “full” as some of the other down offers out there, but doesn’t seem to lack when it comes to keeping you warm. If you are looking for a great jacket that will keep you warm all day, this is the one for you.

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20th February 2007

The Reversino, Best Belay Device for Ice Climbing. Ever.

Petzl ReversinoThe Reverso is a great belay device. The option to belay directly off an anchor and create an auto locking belay for the second is fantastic. The only downfall is that skinny ropes, especially in winter, don’t hold very well. Rappelling on them after an ice climb can be somewhat exciting, as you’re trying to grip the cords and they want to move faster and faster through the device. At first glance the Reversino seems to fit such a specific niche that it really isn’t all that useful, but after comparing the two, I’m sold. The difference in how well they grip skinny cords is night and day. With the Reverso, iced up skinny ropes definitely make for some exciting rappelling. Plug those same ropes into a Reversino, and watch all your worries fade away. The way it locks down on skinny cords is fantastic, and greatly adds to your peace of mind on your next rappel. If you climb with small diameter twin or double ropes in the winter, this is an essential piece of gear.

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