You’ve probably read about, or at least heard of, the CIA mission to Nanda Devi back in the 60’s where they tried to put a nuclear powered listening device on the summit to spy on China. They had to retreat on the first attempt, and left the device at their high camp, thinking they could come back next season. When they returned, the device was gone, never to be found again. This article talks with one of the members of the team who claims he made the first solo ascent of the peak, but the evidence is still classified by the CIA so there is no official proof. Good read. Sounds like a bunch of those bad ass climbers in the 60s were working with the CIA somehow. Interesting.
Well, the winter is coming to a close here in Colorado, and while I think we’ll probably see a few more storms, its safe to say the ice season in Redstone is pretty much over. You might be able to find some north facing stuff that is still holding on, but I’d rather be out on the warm sunny rocks.
So now that it’s come and gone, I can look back on this past season with fondness, it was a great year for ice. Our first hint should have been when Banzai Pipeline came in and stayed in for more than a few days. According to the guidebook, it only comes in once every 10 years. That’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it usually doesn’t stick around long when it does come in. Banzai was one of the first climbs of the season, and it was a treat to get to climb such a cool and ephemeral line.
Mostly I remember this past season for all the climbs I did that I had never checked out before. Routes that had been on the list for quite some time but just never seemed to get done. Aside from Banzai, Curtain Call was a nice surprise, a big fat flow of moderate ice. Tomato Chimney and Crystal Visions are true classics, despite their 2 hour+ approach times. And Hidden Falls is just cool, sitting way up high in that secluded amphitheater. The Pencil area was fun to check out, with several moderate lines aside from the sick mixed routes, Survivor and Fear Factor.
I guess I better stop talking, as all the “outsiders” might want to come see what all the fuss is about. Of course they’ll have to wait until next year, and by then they’ll probably have forgotten all about us out here on the Western Slope. Unless of course they see this picture of how ridiculously fat Avocado Gully was this year!
One of the things that continually draws me to ice climbing is the ephemeral nature of it. Some years you’ll only have the usual suspects, other years anything is possible. And after a long, warm summer, when the leaves begin to change, we’ll start sharpening the tools and looking up at the shady alcoves for signs of what the next season will bring us.
You’ve got to watch this. I’ve seen these guys and their ice screw tests at Ouray before, usually with some kind of weight simulating a human body, or even a dummy. This time they are stepping up to a whole new level and actually taking real whips onto ice gear. The info we’ll get from these tests will undoubtedly be super valuable. Not that taking whippers with all that sharp stuff strapped to your body will ever be a good idea, but at least you’ll know what the odds are of the gear holding.
After you’ve spent enough time in the Creek, you come to recognize certain groups that frequent the area. A few observations of the most obvious.
1) The Telluride Crew - These guys often show up in groups of 20 or more, all the while complaining about “how crowded the Creek has gotten” and “can you believe how many people are at this wall?” Easily spotted by their signature Carharts and visors, it’s best to avoid these large groups and seek solitude on a crag that is more than 15 minutes from the road. And as for the crowded comment, go climb at the Gunks on a Saturday in September if you want to see what a crowded climbing area truly looks like.
2) The SLC Crew - No doubt bitter that Indian Creek is the best crag in Colorado, these climbers often strut around like they have something to prove. Someone should let them in on the secret that we’re all here to have a good time.
3) The Lone Wolf - A rare breed, these folks are usually well known to those who frequent the area with any regularity. Always looking to hop a ride on your top rope and spray it up to anyone unlucky enough to be caught within earshot. True dirtbags.
4) The Vet - These are the true masters, the Jedi of the creek. Usually soft spoken, they float up the hard cracks like that was what they came to Earth to do. Usually friendly and full of great stories, they are often a pleasure to share a camp fire with. Look in the dictionary under Chris Kalous.
5) Everyone else - By far the largest group at the Creek, the rest of us just want to have fun. It’s the sickest crack climbing in the world and the scenery is top notch, what more can you ask for?
