Courtesy of BigUp, here’s a great short video of Chris Sharma on the first ascent of Dreamcatcher in Squamish (from Dosage Vol. 4).

Sorry for the lack of activity lately, I have to admit this is probably the slowest time of year for me as a climber. The ice was fun for a couple of months, but now the snowpack is stabilizing and the skiing is just too good. I mean, what would you choose, face shots or getting wet and scared? Some folks keep the ice alive as long as they can, look for more guest blogs from Rob Griz in that vein. If we keep getting some good sun in between storms it’ll probably be time to head out to the warmer crags as well. Ah spring!

If you’re looking to do work for free and hang out in Jackson this summer:

Alpinist Magazine seeks qualified applicants for production, advertising, circulation, film festival and online editorial internship positions. For more information, please see our website.

Alpinist is an archival-quality climbing journal produced by a dedicated group, balancing the necessities of business acumen with the spirit of alpinism. Because of Alpinist’s small staff, our interns play an important role behind the scenes as well as in the development of every issue. Each internship provides unique opportunities to experience many facets of magazine publishing in a progressive, cause-oriented environment.

Ideally, summer internships would begin on June 1 with a three- to four-month duration, but some flexibility with schedules can be accommodated. Location is the Alpinist World Headquarters at the base of the Tetons, in Jackson, Wyoming.

Well, I’ve finally wrapped up most of the stuff I am writing for the new Western Sloper guidebook, and it feels good to be almost done! There will be more edits and such, but the bulk of my work is winding down. It’s been a lot of time, I can see why they say writing these things is a labor of love! My contributions include the Narrows, Redstone, Coal Creek, Dead Horse, Hagerman Pass, Seven Castles and the Frying Pan. I can’t imagine how much work it would be to put together something for a larger area. It’s also been great working with Dave and Andy at Wolverine, those guys are on it. It’s pretty fun to send in all the text and photos and get back a nicely laid out page.

The book is looking great, and I think people are going to be really impressed with the quality. It would be worth buying just for the updated Rifle section, but with around 20 other new crags, you’ve got to pick up a copy! With so many new cliffs, color photos, it’s going to be a fun season to be a climber in this area, lots of new places to check out. Hopefully the book will be hitting stores in May, and I’ll be offering it for sale through this site as well. Stay tuned for more details.

Oh, and for anyone who is chasing ice, looks like Banzai Pipeline is in. Best…ice season…..ever!

Mike Schneiter on the first ascent of One Hold Shy, Dead Horse.

With all the sunshine recently folks have been getting out on the local rock (where it’s not covered with snow). Mike and I headed out to Glenwood Canyon on Sunday, full of hope as the warm sun was beating down in town. By the time we got to the Hanging Lake exit, it was snowing, but we were committed, so we hiked up to the wall. After checking out a new route (in a snow storm), and then seeing some big rock fall, we retreated to the established climbs. The sun came out for a bit and Mike was able to send a project we’d left from the fall. With nine routes that are pretty steep, Dead Horse could be a good option once some more snow melts. Bring a sense of adventure and have some fun!