A couple of us played hooky from work on Wednesday and headed up to the F-Pan crag. This area was featured in an article in the most recent Rock and Ice magazine, and for good reason. The stone is excellent, the climbing unique and the setting top notch. The lower crag, the Skillet, is in the new guidebook, but there are about 50 more routes up the hill at the upper area. We hope to get some topos online soon, for now if you want to explore, just keep hiking up the trail past the Chubby Pickle for about 20 minutes. The routes will be obvious.

We spent the day playing on the Mental Block, which already has an excellent selection of climbs, from 5.8 to 5.13. Mike was like a man possessed and when the dust cleared we had two new lines, both 5.11-ish. It was a great day to be out enjoying the incredible fall weather we’ve been having, hopefully it’ll go on for another month!

Or maybe it’s here for those who’d rather chase ephermeral drips than relish in the last beautiful days of sun before winter closes it’s icy claws about us.

Looks like the folks in Crested Butte have found some stuff to play on.

Also, down south it appears things are coming in around Ouray and Silverton.

Not much going on in Rocky Mountain Park at the moment, sounds like it’s just too dry there currently, which is hard to believe, as we have an incredible amount of snow above treeline in the Elks.

In these parts, the Laundry Chutes on Sopris appear to be in good shape, and the right most one is definitely worth checking out if you are in need of an alpine fix close to home. I was up in the area yesterday and the summer trail appears to be relatively snow free still, so have at.

As for me, I’ll be holding onto the rocks as long as possible…

A big thanks to everyone who came out for the film on Wednesday night. We were able to raise over $1000 for the new Glenwood Climbing program!

Today we’ve got a guest blog from Mike Schneiter on the highs and lows of finding and developing a new crag. Enjoy.

Finding new crags in Glenwood Canyon is a bit like playing the slot machines in Las Vegas. There’s a lot of rock, but it’s a big gamble if you’re going to find good, quality stone and come away a winner. The quartzite in Glenwood Canyon is particularly this way, with pockets of great rock and many stretches of horrible choss.

After developing the Dead Horse Crag last year, my eyes were opened to other potential crags on the canyon’s quartzite. A section of orangeish-red, compact stone above the popular Glenwood Canyon bike path caught my attention. Geologically, it appeared to be part of the same band that Dead Horse was comprised of but with greater height and no steep overhangs. One snowy winter day I showed BJ my objective but he sounded skeptical because other rock downstream in that same band looked super ugly.

While my friends chuckled and offered polite ridicule of my intentions to explore more of the canyon’s quartzite, I had great faith that a gem was waiting to be found. One afternoon after work, I loaded my pack and made my way to a gully that appeared to provide easy access to the top. Instead, nasty scree slogging was broken by a couple of steep, awkward boulder problems through steep sections, made more difficult by my heavy pack.

On top of my objective I tip-toed around, over, and in between the stacked blocks of quartzite and carefully made my way to the cliff’s edge. A nice horizontal crack ate up a couple of large cams and provided security as I peered over the edge. The rock was better than I could believe, looking hard, compact and featured with ample holds.

My plan was to establish an anchor and rappel the face to take a closer look and begin the cleaning and climbing process, leaving a fixed rope for another day. My hope to use a tree for an anchor proved unreasonable due to the distance from the cliff’s edge and the amount of loose choss my webbing and rope would surely displace. Unable to find adequate cracks for nuts or pins, I reached into my pack for the power drill. I pulled out drill, bolts, anchor material, and wrench but I reached the bottom of my pack without finding any drill bits. Doh!

I really wanted to leave a rope fixed so that I could make the easy hike from the bottom and start climbing the face, but I was uncomfortable leaving my rope fixed to a couple of nice cams. Hence, I cleaned my stuff and hiked down with nothing gained but a close-up look and a few pictures to share with skeptical friends. Determined to avoid the heinous gully I chose another path and picked my way through scrub oak and a plethora of bushes to return to the bike path.

A couple days later I returned, this time double checking the contents of my pack and taking a better path that closely followed my prior descent path. Over the course of several visits I meticulously cleaned, brushed, climbed and bolted a number of lines.

Always working by myself, I had yet to lead any of the new climbs until I lured my wife out to the cliff one afternoon. Highly skeptical of the crag that I was jokingly calling the “Crag of the Century” or “Quartzite Wasteland,” she happily belayed me on four first ascents in one afternoon. Climbing the routes herself, she surprised even me by declaring a couple of the long routes as true classics.

Afterwards, we celebrated with delicious burgers at Glenwood’s old school drive-in, the Charcoal Burger, the inspiration for the name of my favorite route. It was there under the fluorescent lights that the crag developing process had come full circle. It all started with the idea of finding good quartzite in Glenwood Canyon, continued with careful looking up at the many walls, entailed many hours of hiking, cleaning, brushing, bolting and climbing on the new routes, and culminated in one afternoon of first leads and big smiles with burgers in hand around a picnic table. And it was there that another cycle started when I said, “so the other day I saw this section of quartzite cliff…”

Tonight’s the night! 7pm at the Glenwood High School Auditorium, $10 at the door, cash only. We’ve got a bunch of great films lined up, in addition to a silent auction and loads of free stuff to give away. And once again, all proceeds go to benefit the new Glenwood Climbing team. See you there!

You can also buy tickets in advance with a credit card here.

And only the clueless are shocked…

It’s the talk of the climbing world right now. Everyone’s favorite super glossy mag Alpinist is calling it quits. A quick perusal of the announcement over on the site shows many people upset (and maybe surprised?) about this. And it is unfortunate, as I think the mag was excellent, and only recently I finally threw down for a sub. Without a sound business model, however, it was only a matter of time. Dougald Macdonald has an excellent take on it, which may be especially enlightening for folks who haven’t spent any time in the magazine business. For those of us who have, however, it was more of a surprise that they lasted this long, with only the deep pockets of their sugar daddy, er, I mean founder, to keep them in it. It’ll be interesting to see if someone buys it and tries to turn it into a profitable mag. If so, you can certainly expect to see more ads, as that’s how you make the money in that there magazine business.