Seems like it’s that time of year, when you can’t open your email inbox without finding out about another end of summer sale. This one really stood out though as Cloudveil is offering up to 60% off some of their climbing and ski clothing. I picked up a few things, these prices are better than pro deal! Supplies probably wont last long though, so I’d head over there soon if you want to get in on the fun. Enjoy!

A local paper, the Post Independent, has an article today about the new Rifle Mountain Park & Western Colorado Rock Climbs guidebook. It focuses on Dave Pegg, the motivating force behind the guide and the founder of Wolverine Publishing. Definitely worth a quick read.

In other news, NPS officials are starting to confiscate stashed pads in Rocky Mountain Park. This seems to be somewhat of a controversial issue for some, but if you’re too lazy to carry crash pad a couple miles, then maybe you shouldn’t be back there.

Also, the Climbing Narc is giving away some DVD’s and Pimpin and Crimpin has an entertaining interview with Climbing Mag Editor in Chief Matt Samet.

Here at SplitterChoss.com headquarters we’ve got some more reviews coming down the pipe, as well as some interviews with local climbers, and a whole lot more.

Guest blog by Rob Griz

“I am the eagle, I live in high country
In rocky cathedrals that reach to the sky
I am the hawk and there’s blood on my feathers
But time is still turning they soon will be dry
And all of those who see me, all who believe in me
Share in the freedom I feel when I fly

- John Denver

Ever since I began this crazy game of chasing frozen flows and incessantly watching weather, I have always been fortunate to live close to some sort of classic ice. Back in PA I climbed the Narrows, a beautifully chossy 350’ cliff that offered some post-work pick placing. When things were hoppin’, there were a number of gullies and flows I could run up and downclimb, putting in lap after lap, cruising up routes not only with efficient speed but more importantly with fluid form. Be like the grasshopper.

A year later and my ‘backyard’ playground has taken a change of scenery. Once scaling roadside rusty red cliffs of Brunswick Shale high above the slow steady flow of the Delaware River, I now punch my way up to the Vail amphitheater. Admittedly the river was way more tranquil than the rambling roar of I-70, but change is good and Vail has offered me new challenges.

The Fang in particular, has been an object of my passion (obsession?!). Friends have traveled, climbed and brought back stories and snapshots. After watching the free-hanging Fang build and snap from it’s perch multiple times this year, I was wondering if I ‘d get my shot at sending this mighty hunk of ice. When it finally formed well enough to climb, it caught me off guard with just the essentials I drag along to solo. An older rope, 3 screws and a few draws. As luck would kinda have it, a fella (Eric) happened to be up there poking around partnerless like me. The line I chose was steep, sweet and virgin…the best kinda lines for leading. Up the pillar and under the curtain I almost wasted myself hacking a hole in the massive sheet that stood between me and the top. A few airy and exposed moves and I was atop a line I had only dreamed of in pictures.

So where does this all lead, you ask? Vail has become my post work work-out wall, and what better place to spend some spiritual solo time than on the steep, icy walls of chossy limestone?! My circuit usually consists of a lap up the Fang and then a TR lap up one of sides too intimidating to take on ropeless. Pulling the line, I face into the wall and run up the 7th Tentacle to the chains. Zip down, fix the line and dance a delicate lap up the Frigid Inseminator. Back down and feeling warmed-up, I run over, rope in hand, to the Rigid Desi. Peg-board makes for a nice cool-down as I stretch far between pockets. Big moves on the Nomics lends an incredible sense of freedom, dare I say flight. Like an eagle pulling the thermals mid-morning, I soar higher and higher in an entrancing ascent. I perch atop the anchors, gaze out at the ice that still clings to Booth Creek’s warm red walls and give utmost praise to the Spirits.

See, soloing ice for me is a truly spiritual experience. No bystanders, no bragging, no bullshit. I could care less what anyone thinks, it’s truly all about my heart, soul, mind and body culminating in harmonious unison. The focus is like none other, it is the Zen experience, the Vision Quest. Fluid, like the water that runs from mountain tops to the valley floors. The purity of the experience cleanses the mind, liberates the soul and renews the spirit. Few things in this world release me in this way.

Guest blog by Rob Griz.

Talisman: (n) A small amulet or other object, often bearing magical symbols, worn for protection against evil spirits or the supernatural. (Wiktionary.org)

The Talisman is no ‘small object’, more like a substantial objective. The route has to be, in my opinion, one of Colorado’s best ‘true’ mixed routes, magical if you may. Three pitches, trad gear, rock, ice, choss, all at the stiffer end of the grades. After heading into Skylight the week before and seeing the route for the first time, I knew exactly what I was gonna be doing the following weekend…oh yeah boy!

No bolts, no bullshit, straight on skill, a pure line that is trad to the core. An early start had us busting across the base of the avy run-out and traversing trees into the drainage. Little did we know another party had set off ahead of us with the same line in mind. The skinning was spectacular and allowed cruiser climbing speed, unknowingly passing above the aforementioned party. There is much more to that story, but let’s say that it was a most appropriate score and an excellent start to our day as we motored above them to the base of the route.

Thirty feet of delaminated egg-shell stood between us and the 450’ above. I opted to climb the right side via a chossy M6+R line that took one piece of gear, a #4 wire behind a loose block (I believe that piece may have sufficed as my “Talisman”). Amazing when something looks easier than it really is. It probably wouldn’t have felt so rough had I not ripped off 3 hunks of rock, but I managed to stay glued to the stone. Nothing like a heady warm-up to get ya going. Cruiser but funky ice wandered a bit left, leaving me to traverse right to set up Tony for pitch 2. Tony arrived at the ledge with a high-five and sigh. After pulling through the lower mixed antics, I could tell he wasn’t too stoked to have at the next pitch. A few decompression minutes on the ledge, some gear exchange and he was up on the thin ‘cicle having a look.

It’s always fun when one “has a look”. This usually is a slow sequence of linked moves which, in some cases, you can’t reverse easily, at which point you become committed to going up….well, because it just might be easier…maybe. Tony styled it, linking ice blobs with sublimated holes and good rock gear. The final 30’ was quite interesting with a skeletal lattice of ice, barely adhered to a wide, vertical crack. With a loud ‘hoot n’ holler’, I knew he was off and sitting pretty on the ledge. Seconding on traversing lines always adds some spice, so I had to keep it clean and honest. A final re-rack and I was off on the final stretch. A sweet little rock traverse led to nice steep ice which kicked back after about 80’.

All tolled, we rocked it out in WI5 M6+R conditions. A good night of planning, the right gear, the right amount of gear and a solid head made the route such a pleasure. Our rap was a bit challenging as it put us 50’ off the next rap tree, and had we poked around more up top, we probably woulda found another station further to the climber’s right (as we had kinda already known). No big deal though, we had some big-ass shit-eatin’ grins that graced our sun tanned mugs into the late evening toast.

Driving back from skiing in Marble yesterday, it’s pretty apparent the ice season in Redstone has come to a close. The Pencil fell down, the Pillar is missing it’s top, the Drool is running with water. What a season it was though! Aside from all the incredible ice that formed up, I also got more dialed in in the gear department. Along with the Black Diamond Punisher Gloves, I have found the holy grail of warm belay mittens. They are the Black Diamond Mercury Mitts, and these things are toasty! The first time you put them on you may be confused, as they seem to be generating their own heat. I didn’t know that the geniuses over at BD had developed minature nuclear reactors, but apparently that’s the case. They are sized large, which makes it easy to wear a thin liner glove underneath. This is nice for when you need to remove the mitts for some dexterous task, but don’t want to expose your hands to the cold. You can also remove the liners if you don’t need all that warmth, and substitute something of your own. These are the warmest things I’ve ever had on my hands, if you are looking for the perfect ice climbing belay handwear, look no further. This is as good as it gets.