The International – Glenwood Canyon’s Longest Route

On Sunday, September 8th Chris Van Leuven and Mike Schneiter made a free ascent of Glenwood Canyon’s International. The ascent is possibly only the second free ascent of the entire route, which climbs 1800′ from the base of the canyon to the rim on two granite buttresses and one limestone buttress.

The duo completed the route in 10-1/2 hours car-to-car.

Originally rated 5.9+ when free climbed by Michael Kennedy and Jeff Lowe in 1982, Kennedy recently revised the rating to “5.10+??.” Kennedy doesn’t know of anyone else to have climbed the route since its first free ascent.

The first ascent was made by Kennedy and Harvey T. Carter in 1975. The pair climbed two granite buttresses and one-third of the way up the limestone buttress with one bivy before retreating. Later, they returned and finished the route, traversing into the limestone to skip the lower granite climbing. Their effort was all-free minus “60 feet of aid” in 18 pitches of climbing. Kennedy later went back and freed the whole climb with Jeff Lowe in a single push.

The route’s primary difficulties lie in the dubious rock quality and questionable protection. The crux pitch involves climbing a wide crack through a roof, with the benefit of face holds. Getting to the roof is guarded by some of the “worst rock I’ve every seen,” said Schneiter, who, with Van Leuven, is a veteran of other choss affairs such as the Grizzly Creek Wall (a.k.a. Mudwall) in Glenwood Canyon and a free attempt on the Finger of Fate in the Fisher Towers. While the granite climbing is mostly straightforward, the limestone requires the use of a hammer and a selection of knifeblades, lost arrows and angles for the route’s upper limestone buttress, all of which were used to a great extent.

Props to Mike and Chris for getting it done on this line. Those looking for a big adventure need look no further than the towering walls of Glenwood Canyon.

References:

1976 American Alpine Journal

1982 American Alpine Journal