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Climbing, Adventure, Gear & Choss
Bad Bolts at The Puoux
By Mike Schneiter
Talk about scary!
This spring, I’ve been replacing bad or suspect anchors and bolts at our beloved little roadside crag, the Puoux with hardware donated by Climbing Magazine’s Anchor Replacement Initiative. In the process, I’ve discovered a number of rather scary bolts, a couple of which prompted me to think, “man, I’m glad I didn’t whip on that thing.” Tonight took the cake though.
Roadside Attraction is a short, mediocre line that checks in at around 5.10a. Its claim to fame is that it’s arguably the most popular climb in western Colorado. Throughout the year it sees a steady flow of traffic, particularly because it’s easy to hike around to the top and set up a toprope. I’ve climbed it countless times, often combining it with the second pitch for a long warmup.
I’ve never been too fond of the bolting on the climb and others have shared their feelings with me as I’ve worked at replacing bolts this spring. Many of us have wondered about the third bolt, placed in a suspect block. Tonight, while rappelling the route after updating the second pitch anchor I decided to tap around with my hammer and see if any of the route’s bolts were in hollow rock. My senses have been alerted after finding a couple of key crux bolts on Two Tone in frighteningly hollow rock that was peeling off with moderate tugs six inches away. Additionally, a few years ago a large flake with a bolt in the middle of it fell off the Left Indominate and rumors flew that someone had whipped on the bolt, causing its displacement.
After a few hits with the hammer.
Upon closer inspection the 3rd bolt did indeed have cracks all around the bolted hold/block. I gave it a couple of taps to listen for a hollow ring and it gave that eerie hollow sound that a route developer despises. I tapped it a couple more times and thought that I could detect some movement in the hold. Giving it a couple harder swings, although not violent, I could see the cracks around the hold widen and I knew it was going to come off easily. With about six more swings the hold came off with the bolt in it. I left a note on the first bolt warning future ascents and brought my artifact home to rest on my shelf
Now, the question is, “do we rebolt the rest of the climb while we’re at it?”
Here’s my argument, which is by no means settled.
1. Obviously the third bolt needs to be replaced.
2. We don’t know who the first ascentionist is so we can’t ask for permission.
3. There is groundfall potential when clipping the second bolt and particularly when pulling up rope.
4. The second bolt is in rock that sounds good now but there is hollow rock on two sides of it within 6 inches and it appears to be part of a larger flake feature that may work loose with time and freeze/thaw. How long, I don’t know but it seems like a possibility. Currently, the second bolt protects the crux.
5. I propose that the first bolt be moved up slightly, 4 to 6 inches. The second bolt should be lowered, about 10 inches into a solid plaque of rock. The third bolt should be relocated 12 to 18 inches to the left of its original placement in a solid plague of rock that could be clipped before committing to the crux, thereby offering better protection for the leader. The fourth bolt is probably fine but we could replace it while we’re at it and move it 4 to 6 inches lower where it will be easier to clip and better protect the upper moves.
Roadside Attraction. The blue numbers indicate the location of existing bolts (or recently existing in the case of the 3rd) and the red numbers indicate the possible location of new bolts.
Please share your thoughts. I have no intention of doing this alone and would love as much community input as possible, even if it is a chunk of roadside choss. I would like to rebolt this before the weekend and plan to go out on Thursday night (8-8:30), after my own climbing session, to do the work along with some beers, pizza, and friends. Feel free to join us and contribute to the decision making process.
You can leave thoughts/comments below or here on Mountain Project.
12 Responses to Bad Bolts at The Puoux
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I think that your suggestions are all sound! If the route is (currently) dangerous there is little or no reason to not make it safe before someone hurts themselves.
I’m currently drilling and bolting a new crag and I’m being very wary and careful of what is placed where.
Keep up the good work
i don’t have much input into this particular climb, although at first glance your suggestions sound good. i did want to drop a note and say thanks for your work and attention to the routes so many enjoy. you are very much appreciated.
Mike,
YES! Rebolt it! Do it the right way, your suggestions are obviously well thought out and sound. This is a practice that has a lot of precedence around here. Roadside limestone is not trad climbing, do the right thing! Bolts are moved inches, feet, replaced, removed, added, etc in rifle all the time. There is no ethical dilemma here, seeing as how you could not get any lower on the ethical crag list than the puoux. Sport climbing is supposed to be safe, especially the easier routes. You are the man, way to step up! cheers,
-andy wellman
Mike,
Thanks for re-examining that block, the Captain always thought it looked sketchy and thanks to you it’s gone. I say, re-evaluate and re-bolt!
Holy cowsers!
I’m in – see you tomorrow night.
Thanks for all your good work and for being thoughtful about it.
Rebolt the thing! Andy says it all …
re: Tracy – It’s gone from the cliff but not gone forever as it’s sitting on my bookshelf. Maybe it will make a great award for a future ice festival.
Thanks for all the suggestions. Keep ’em coming before tonight’s work.
definitely re do it, but the thing that this makes me wonder about is how strong was that bolt in that block? I mean how many falls do you think it held? As someone who places a lot of bolts, I usually stress about each placement, making sure it’s as good as possible, but something like this makes me wonder if even “bad” placements have a bit of strength to them. We should have drop tested that thing before you hammered it off!
I was thinking about drop testing it but it came off so easily that I didn’t have time or the opportunity to do it!
Seriously though, it’s a good question. Some of those “bad” placements probably have a fair bit of strength to them. I think some of the bolts I’ve replaced in “bad” rock are probably a result of years of freeze-thaw and the exfoliating nature of some of the rock at the Puoux. As far as the bolt in question, I’m not sure it would have seen a bunch of falls because it’s after the crux and it’s “easy” sailing to the anchors. I think the second bolt is what gets fallen on a lot on that route because it protects the crux. At the same time, who knows what that rock was like before it was bolted and with ~15 years of falls, perhaps it’s possible that the fracturing around the block was a result of those falls and the freeze-thaw. When the block was removed there was clear evidence in the form of dust on the block and the remaining rock that there was separation between the two. Kind of like when you trundle a flake and behind the flake there’s dirt, dust, etc. This was not a “clean” break.
To me, it’s a proactive thing. Lets not wait until a bolt fails. Lets update bolts now that are “in need” so that they’re good for the foreseeable future.
Climbs belong to climbers, not to the first ascentionist. Do what needs to be done.
Just wanted to chime in and say thanks to Mike and everyone else taking the time and effort to bolt and maintain routes. All that work definitely puts a big stupid smile on my face every time out. Certainly quality placements and maintenance have kept me out of the hospital a few times. So, thanks again for the work!