Rab Boreas Pull-on Review

We were on an alpine ridge somewhere above 13000′, on a splitter Colorado summer day. Our goal was to test out a bunch of new gear from Black Diamond and Sportiva, and one of the things we were wearing was a synthetic pullover from BD. We got to talking about it, and a friend and I decided that the ideal pullover for climbing would have lightweight, stretchy material, with a hood for when the wind picks up. Something light yet versatile that would cover the bases for most of the days you’d spend out multipitch cragging. Fast forward a couple weeks and I smiled wide as I took the Rab Boreas out of the package. This was exactly what we had been talking about.

After several months of use, it’s everything I hoped it could be, and usually the first thing I grab when heading out the door. The material is a single-weave stretch nylon lycra which is very light and supple, and offers excellent stretch. It also appears to be plenty durable, as I’ve scraped up numerous Indian Creek corners wearing it and haven’t noticed any excessive wear. The shirt comes down low in the back, which means it stays tucked under your harness on those chilly, windy days, and the sleeves are a good length, with large cuffs that mean they easily roll up and stay put on your forearms when you want them out of the way.

The hood is low profile, and they recommend fitting it under a helmet, to provide that extra little bit of warmth when the wind picks up, but we also found the fabric stretchy enough that it can go over a helmet as well. And speaking of wind, the Boreas does an excellent job of blocking it while still being highly breathable. There’s a chest pocket for stowing small items like chapstick or your glasses for the next grueling offwidth pitch. And it easily stuffs into its chest pocket for when the sun is shining and you just want it clipped to your harness. Backcountry skiers should give this thing a look as well, as we found it excellent for uphill skinning.

My only small complaint would be that like most synthetics, it gets smelly after a couple uses without a wash, but not excessively so. If you’re dirtbagging it this could be an issue, but for those of us who sleep in a bed most nights and have a washing machine, it’s not a big deal. Plus, from what I read in the magazines, there aren’t really any true dirtbags left out there anyway.

I don’t know of too many other comparable products on the market, and I think for multipitch cragging, this is close to the perfect piece to take when the weather is going to be good but you want something just in case.

At a Glance Features

• Stretchy soft shell fabric wicks moisture away and blocks the wind well
• UPF 50+ due to the construction (no chemicals)
• Offers light moisture protection
• Deep venting chest zip
• Under (or over) helmet hood
• Flat lock seams for comfort and easy layering
• Larger cuffs allow you to easily roll the sleeves (perfect for crack climbing)

Look for it in online and in stores starting March 1st.

UPDATE 11/28/12: While this is still my favorite climbing top, you should know that over time it gets very stinky. After a while, no matter how much you wash it, it retains an odor. There is a new version coming soon that will eliminate this problem, and I’d wait until then to get one.

Disclaimer: The FTC wants you to know this product was provided to SplitterChoss.com for the purpose of reviewing. Like that makes a difference on how much we beat the crap out of it …