Fear Factor, WI5+ M7

A mixed variation to the Pencil. This climbs the obvious right leaning crack below the hanging dagger to where the crack reaches a ledge. From the ledge, traverse left, clipping a bolt, to a big reach for the ice. Kevin Cooper led the first ascent on all natural pro that ran out ten feet before the ledge. He continued to the left edge of the ledge where he placed a ridiculously bad pin, made the long reach to the dagger and started up with his left foot on the ice and his right foot on the rock. The ice was too bad for screws until the top. For the majority of the climb after the crack Kevin was looking at ground fall potential. Reported to be absolutely incredible climbing. A bolt was later placed at the traverse to make this a semi-sane climb with the blessing of the first ascent party.

FA: Kevin Cooper, Ryan Jennings, January 2005.

Locals Corner

Bulldog Creek Dog Walk (IV WI 4+)

Hayden Carpenter and Tom Bohanon recently repeated an obscure ice climb on the south side of Mt Sopris. Given a brief mention in Jack Robert’s ice guide, Bulldog Creek Walk is described as being 100 meters of WI 4. What they found was seven pitches of ice in a remote setting that makes for one […]

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