feature photo

Feature Article #1

The Sport Climbing Toolkit

We’ve spent much of the summer in town this year, enjoying several of the good local sport crags. As such, I’ve gotten my sport climbing systems fully dialed, and present to you my Sport Climbing Toolkit.

BJ Sbarra | September 3rd, 2010 | Continued

feature photo

Feature Article #2

Best of Summer Outdoor Retailer 2010

I had good intentions. All of my appointments would be in the morning and early afternoon, leaving the evenings free for some climbing. Somehow the OR Show just has a way o f taking over, however, and climbing didn’t happen. We did get to check out a lot of the latest and greatest coming out [...]

BJ Sbarra | August 12th, 2010 | Continued

feature photo

Feature Article #3

Black Diamond Launches New Climbing Packs

To an outside observer, this would look really strange. There we were, at about 13,000′ on the Southwest Ridge of Mount Sneffels, and Jeff Achey and I were actually putting big rocks into our packs for the remainder of the ascent. We were on a press trip, to try out the new climbing packs from Black Diamond that will launch in spring 2011.

BJ Sbarra | July 30th, 2010 | Continued

feature photo

Feature Article #4

Rock Climbing Colorado, 2nd Edition

Many years ago now, I came out to Colorado for a summer of fun in Estes Park. Not knowing where I’d want to climb, I bought a copy of the Rock Climbing Colorado guidebook, as it seemed to have good info on many different areas. Times have changed, and guidebooks have come a long way since that original edition. Full color photos are the norm, with heaps of useful info guaranteed to get you climbing more and fumbling around looking for routes less. And so the old standard of Rock Climbing Colorado has finally been upgraded into the 21st century.

BJ Sbarra | July 2nd, 2010 | Continued

feature photo

Feature Article #5

Interview with Sam Lightner, Jr.

If you’ve spent any time climbing around Moab, chances are you’ve lowered or rappelled off an anchor that was replaced by Sam Lightner, Jr. He and his crew have been tirelessly at work, upgrading the old mank scattered across the desert, from Castleton to Wall Street. I recently caught up with him to find out more about what he’s been up to, how he got into it, and what else he enjoys in the desert.

BJ Sbarra | June 21st, 2010 | Continued

feature photo

Feature Article #6

Things to Do While Waiting to Climb

So let’s say you have 6 hours to kill before guiding some clients on Wall Street. A reasonable objective might be the North Chimney on Castleton, with your friend who has never climbed the tower. The climbing is moderate and you should have plenty of time to get up and down quickly.

BJ Sbarra | May 13th, 2010 | Continued

feature photo

Feature Article #7

Injury Prevention

We’ve already covered what to do if/when you get hurt, and how to come back the right way, so this month we’re looking at ways to maintain your health once you get it back and how to prevent injuries from happening in the first place.

BJ Sbarra | April 29th, 2010 | Continued

feature photo

Feature Article #8

Dumb Things Climbers Complain About: Crowds

Recently I was driving up a scenic road to a beautiful cliff on a perfect spring day, and as we got closer to the parking area, there was a part of me that was really hoping to see some other cars in the lot, to know that other folks were going to be out enjoying the day like us. As I pondered these things, I noticed with a smile how I was actually hoping to see some people, and how that is very different from how many people (myself included) usually approach a day of climbing.

BJ Sbarra | April 22nd, 2010 | Continued

feature photo

Feature Article #9

The Frying Pan – Featured Crag

Ah the F-Pan, where do I begin? This is easily my favorite crag in the Roaring Fork valley region. The rock is excellent (and unusually not chossy for this area). The climbing is thoughtful, technical and powerful all at the same time. The aesthetics are top notch, and the views from the upper cliffs are some of the best anywhere.

BJ Sbarra | April 15th, 2010 | Continued

feature photo

Feature Article #10

9 Tips For Climbing & Camping With a Kid

Your wife just announced she is pregnant and your family is about to grow by plus one, but all you can think about is what happened to our summer of climbing, camping, and road trips? Yes, your life is about to change, but getting out and pulling down doesn’t have to grind to a halt.

Cooper Best | April 9th, 2010 | Continued

About this Site

The Origins of Splitter Choss
“Splitter choss is like a fine wine, or rather more like a PBR – an acquired taste to be savored. Typically, a fine pitch of SC is the most memorable of the route or the day. The term originated in the Black Canyon, a bastion, or should I say THE Holy [...]

Other Recent Articles

post thumbnail

Failure = Learning

There was no sugar coating it, I was getting a beat down. This normally wouldn’t surprise me, but it was on grades that I can comfortably climb at our home crags, so I was feeling a little frustrated.

September 2nd, 2010 | BJ Sbarra | 3 comments | Continued
post thumbnail

Petzl Elia Helmet Review

It was exciting news when I saw the ads for the new Petzl Elia helmet, encouraging Steven Segal to re-grow his manly locks because this was the perfect brain bucket for him. I, like many, laughed at the creativity of the marketing campaign, while at the same time was intrigued by the idea of a helmet that you could rock a pony tail in.

August 27th, 2010 | Tracy Wilson | 2 comments | Continued
post thumbnail

First Ascent DVD Box Set is Here!

The First Ascent box set launched today, featuring cutting edge footage, from the first ropeless climb of Half Dome to Johnny Copp and Micah Dash’s tragic expedition to western China.

August 26th, 2010 | BJ Sbarra | 0 comments | Continued
post thumbnail

Community Service

As we drove into the Park, I immediately saw several people hanging from ropes, drilling away at the overhanging stone. It was the annual Rifle Cleanup, and folks were hard at work replacing the aging hardware in this limestone canyon.

August 23rd, 2010 | BJ Sbarra | 1 comment | Continued
post thumbnail

CU Belay Glasses Review

Sport climbing is generally all about, well, climbing. You’re not worried about gear, or runouts (mostly), you simply focus on the moves and have fun. As such, there are a variety of items that make their way into my pack while sport climbing that could be considered luxuries in other climbing situations: Gri Gri, belay gloves, stick clip, flip flops, and now…belay glasses.

August 20th, 2010 | BJ Sbarra | 2 comments | Continued
post thumbnail

Rifle Mountain Park Clean-up This Saturday

A quick heads up to all Rifle climbers out there that this weekend, Saturday, August 21st, is the annual Rifle Mountain Park Clean-up day. This yearly get together is a day to go out and climb, pick up trash and perhaps help out with a few more major projects as well, such as fixing bridges [...]

August 19th, 2010 | BJ Sbarra | 2 comments | Continued
post thumbnail

Washing A Climbing Rope

It was a beautiful new rope. 9.8mm, 70 meters long, and day glow yellow. It had been made only the week before, and we were now the proud owners. We knew the color would pick up dirt quickly, but we never could have guessed that our beacon of light would fade so quickly. Our last [...]

August 17th, 2010 | BJ Sbarra | 3 comments | Continued
post thumbnail

Reel Rock Filmmaking Competition

It’s that time of year again. The entries are in and you can check out the contestants in the 2010 Reel Rock Filmmaking Competition. There are some quality entries, along with some not so great ones, but regardless this is the perfect way to waste some time on a Friday afternoon.
The deadline for voting is [...]

August 13th, 2010 | BJ Sbarra | 1 comment | Continued
post thumbnail

Western Slope Access Alerts

Two access issues have popped up recently that we wanted to help spread the word about. The first is a little farther afield, in Moab, Utah, at Arches National Park. They are developing a climbing and canyoneering management plan that will take into account things like fixed anchors, permits for new routes, access trails, resource [...]

August 10th, 2010 | BJ Sbarra | 6 comments | Continued
post thumbnail

Summer Outdoor Retailer 2010 Update

It’s been a great show so far, and the overall vibe is very upbeat. We’ve been posting updates on the Facebook page, and will continue to do so the next two days, with more in depth coverage coming here on the site sometime next week.

August 5th, 2010 | BJ Sbarra | 1 comment | Continued
post thumbnail

SplitterChoss on Facebook & OR Updates

It’s official, SplitterChoss.com has joined the Facebook masess. You can find us at www.facebook.com/splitterchoss, so be sure to head on over there and like us, if that’s what you’re into.

August 2nd, 2010 | BJ Sbarra | 0 comments | Continued
post thumbnail

The Science of Climbing’s Awesomeness

“Tristan, it’s all about flow! I can totally understand now why you climb!” I doubted this very much. These words were coming from my next door neighbor, who has gone climbing all of two or three times in her life. She had, however, read about something called flow theory in one of her classes, and went on to explain it to me. And I have to admit, I was pretty intrigued.

July 29th, 2010 | Tristan Higbee | 1 comment | Continued