There was no sugar coating it, I was getting a beat down. This normally wouldn’t surprise me, but it was on grades that I can comfortably climb at our home crags, so I was feeling a little frustrated.
September 2nd, 2010 | BJ Sbarra | 3 comments | Continued
Feature Article #1
The Sport Climbing Toolkit
We’ve spent much of the summer in town this year, enjoying several of the good local sport crags. As such, I’ve gotten my sport climbing systems fully dialed, and present to you my Sport Climbing Toolkit.
Feature Article #2
Best of Summer Outdoor Retailer 2010
I had good intentions. All of my appointments would be in the morning and early afternoon, leaving the evenings free for some climbing. Somehow the OR Show just has a way o f taking over, however, and climbing didn’t happen. We did get to check out a lot of the latest and greatest coming out [...]
Feature Article #3
Black Diamond Launches New Climbing Packs
To an outside observer, this would look really strange. There we were, at about 13,000′ on the Southwest Ridge of Mount Sneffels, and Jeff Achey and I were actually putting big rocks into our packs for the remainder of the ascent. We were on a press trip, to try out the new climbing packs from Black Diamond that will launch in spring 2011.
Feature Article #4
Rock Climbing Colorado, 2nd Edition
Many years ago now, I came out to Colorado for a summer of fun in Estes Park. Not knowing where I’d want to climb, I bought a copy of the Rock Climbing Colorado guidebook, as it seemed to have good info on many different areas. Times have changed, and guidebooks have come a long way since that original edition. Full color photos are the norm, with heaps of useful info guaranteed to get you climbing more and fumbling around looking for routes less. And so the old standard of Rock Climbing Colorado has finally been upgraded into the 21st century.
Feature Article #5
Interview with Sam Lightner, Jr.
If you’ve spent any time climbing around Moab, chances are you’ve lowered or rappelled off an anchor that was replaced by Sam Lightner, Jr. He and his crew have been tirelessly at work, upgrading the old mank scattered across the desert, from Castleton to Wall Street. I recently caught up with him to find out more about what he’s been up to, how he got into it, and what else he enjoys in the desert.
Feature Article #6
Things to Do While Waiting to Climb
So let’s say you have 6 hours to kill before guiding some clients on Wall Street. A reasonable objective might be the North Chimney on Castleton, with your friend who has never climbed the tower. The climbing is moderate and you should have plenty of time to get up and down quickly.
Feature Article #7
Injury Prevention
We’ve already covered what to do if/when you get hurt, and how to come back the right way, so this month we’re looking at ways to maintain your health once you get it back and how to prevent injuries from happening in the first place.
Feature Article #8
Dumb Things Climbers Complain About: Crowds
Recently I was driving up a scenic road to a beautiful cliff on a perfect spring day, and as we got closer to the parking area, there was a part of me that was really hoping to see some other cars in the lot, to know that other folks were going to be out enjoying the day like us. As I pondered these things, I noticed with a smile how I was actually hoping to see some people, and how that is very different from how many people (myself included) usually approach a day of climbing.
Feature Article #9
The Frying Pan – Featured Crag
Ah the F-Pan, where do I begin? This is easily my favorite crag in the Roaring Fork valley region. The rock is excellent (and unusually not chossy for this area). The climbing is thoughtful, technical and powerful all at the same time. The aesthetics are top notch, and the views from the upper cliffs are some of the best anywhere.
Feature Article #10
9 Tips For Climbing & Camping With a Kid
Your wife just announced she is pregnant and your family is about to grow by plus one, but all you can think about is what happened to our summer of climbing, camping, and road trips? Yes, your life is about to change, but getting out and pulling down doesn’t have to grind to a halt.
Cooper Best | April 9th, 2010 | Continued
About this Site
The Origins of Splitter Choss
“Splitter choss is like a fine wine, or rather more like a PBR – an acquired taste to be savored. Typically, a fine pitch of SC is the most memorable of the route or the day. The term originated in the Black Canyon, a bastion, or should I say THE Holy [...]


