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Feature Article #1

Climbing Ethics vs Climbing Fun

As climbing becomes more popular, will old, dangerous routes be upgraded with modern hardware to provide more user friendly, safe climbing for the masses? Or will the old guard defend these testaments to climbing’s past to the death?

BJ Sbarra | March 4th, 2010 | Continued

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Feature Article #2

Osprey Mutant 38 Pack Review

It seems that a lot of packs aren’t all that great, instead marketed to the masses who don’t really know better and will buy whatever the sales rep at the local gear shop tells them to. Every now and then, however, you come across a great pack that actually does what it’s supposed to, and in that category I would put the Osprey Mutant 38, loaded with features designed specifically for climbers.

BJ Sbarra | February 19th, 2010 | Continued

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Feature Article #3

Snap, Crackle, Pop – Now What?

So you’re out on a climb, and something goes wrong. Maybe its a crunch in your shoulder, maybe its a loud pop in your hand (so loud in fact your partner thinks you broke some rock off), or maybe it’s more subtle, something you notice at the end of the day. What should you do?

BJ Sbarra | February 16th, 2010 | Continued

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Feature Article #4

Winterfest Fun in Redstone

This past weekend marked the first Redstone Winterfest, a celebration of winter that included ice climbing demos and clinics. My friend Ya and I decided to check it out, and we met up Saturday morning at a casual 10:30am, thanks in no small part to the groovy disco beats of Sparkle Motion in Carbondale the [...]

BJ Sbarra | February 8th, 2010 | Continued

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Feature Article #5

The End of Outdoor Climbing?

Sunday afternoon in Boulder. We could have gone to Eldo, and climbed a couple of cold, chossy pitches, but it was much easier instead  to head over to the new Movement Climbing + Fitness gym.  My third day in a row there, I couldn’t help but wonder if this ultra-modern facility signals the end of [...]

BJ Sbarra | January 19th, 2010 | Continued

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Feature Article #6

Sport Climbing: From Top Rope to Redpoint

I love climbing, in all it’s varieties: Sport, Trad, Ice, Bouldering, Aid. It’s all fun, and you can learn valuable things from each. I always laugh when I see people calling themselves “Trad” or “Sport” climbers, haven’t they gotten it yet? It’s all climbing, it’s all great. That being said, I learned to climb on [...]

BJ Sbarra | December 29th, 2009 | Continued

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Feature Article #7

Colorado National Monument

Ah November. That magical time of year when the sun is low in the sky, the day’s are short, and the weather is fickle. One day it’s 60 and sunny, the next it dumps a foot of snow. It can make road tripping a little cruxy, as it’s typical to have a weekend with one [...]

BJ Sbarra | November 12th, 2009 | Continued

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Feature Article #8

Sand Booting

I recently partook in a humorous event that led me to coin a new term: “sand booting.” So what are we dealing with here? Well, take your standard sandbag, but mix in the possibility of finding booty and you’ve got sand booting. Here’s how it plays out:
A confident looking party asks for your input on [...]

BJ Sbarra | August 28th, 2009 | Continued

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Feature Article #9

My Day in the Life of a Woman Climber

As a member of the male species, I’ve always wondered what really goes on in the world of women, especially at the cliff. How do they approach hard climbs? What do they talk about? And what happens at the end of the day after the climbing is done? I decided to take my investigative skills [...]

BJ Sbarra | August 5th, 2009 | Continued

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Feature Article #10

Interview with Rock & Ice Editor Jeff Jackson

We’ve been hoping to get these out on a regular basis, but time sure does fly sometimes! Anyway, here’s an interview with one of the most motivated local climbers we know, Jeff Jackson. Kick back with your cup of coffee on this fine Friday morning and enjoy!
How long have you been in the Roaring Fork [...]

BJ Sbarra | July 31st, 2009 | Continued

About this Site

The Origins of Splitter Choss
“Splitter choss is like a fine wine, or rather more like a PBR – an acquired taste to be savored. Typically, a fine pitch of SC is the most memorable of the route or the day. The term originated in the Black Canyon, a bastion, or should I say THE Holy [...]

Other Recent Articles

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CDOT Needs Expert Trundlers in Glenwood Canyon

Alright folks, the 10 hour detour is probably a lot of fun, and I’m sure the Steamboat businesses are psyched about this stimulus package, but it’s evident you need to bring in some experts to finish the job. Now, I know some fellas that are real handy with a prybar and a wall hammer, and I bet we’d do ok with some explosives as well.

March 11th, 2010 | BJ Sbarra | 0 comments | Continued
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Interview With the ClimbingNarc

ClimbingNarc.com is arguably the most popular climbing blog out there, with a loyal following that goes into depression when the site goes down for the weekend. I recently caught up with Brian Runnells, the Climbing Narc himself, to talk about the site and being a climber in the Midwest.

March 9th, 2010 | BJ Sbarra | 1 comment | Continued
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Indian Creek Multipitch First Ascent Video

Thanks to the Black Diamond Journal for this one: a great video of Cedar Wright & Nick Martino on the first ascent of a multipitch 5.13 in Indian Creek, Utah.

Back to the Roots: M.D.M.C.P. a new 5.13 in Indian Creek from Cedar Wright on Vimeo.

March 2nd, 2010 | BJ Sbarra | 0 comments | Continued
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Redstone Ice Climbing Conditions

Well, it’s hard to believe it’s come and gone, but this will probably be the last ice conditions update for the season. Warmer weather is predicted for this week, and things could start falling down soon. That being said, it can be a nice time to get out, as the ice is plastic and you [...]

March 1st, 2010 | BJ Sbarra | 0 comments | Continued
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Black Diamond Enforcer Glove Review

The Black Diamond Enforcer Gloves are designed for ice climbers and mountaineers who need gloves that not only keep their hands warm but also protect their precious fingers from the painful beatings that so often occur when rubber arm sets in, and bad technique causes your knuckles to hit the ice before the pick makes [...]

February 26th, 2010 | Ryan Jennings | 4 comments | Continued
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Pitkin County Open Space Bans Bolting

As reported by the Aspen Daily News, the Pitkin County Open Space and Trails Board has placed a temporary ban on bolting by rock climbers on county land.

February 24th, 2010 | BJ Sbarra | 1 comment | Continued
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Ice Climbing in the Ghost

The American Alpine Club recently ran a video contest, and this was the first place winner. It’s a compilation of footage from a helmet cam of climbing some sweet looking pillars in the Ghost River Valley in Canada. You can find out more about the video here.

February 23rd, 2010 | BJ Sbarra | 0 comments | Continued
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Will Gadd’s Ice Tips

Will Gadd is in the middle of one of his biggest season’s of pure ice ever, and as such, has offered up some handy tips over on his blog. Here’s a couple that really stood out with my thoughts on each.
“If you get a stuck tool regularly you’re likely placing them both at the same [...]

February 18th, 2010 | BJ Sbarra | 0 comments | Continued